Owners of patent RU 2705704:
The invention relates to mechanical engineering, in particular to four-stroke internal combustion engines, and can be used in transport and stationary engine building. The invention is aimed at increasing the durability, reliability and efficiency of the engine by reducing its wear. This is achieved by the fact that a four-stroke internal combustion engine with an oscillating cylinder contains a stationary housing 1, on which a cylinder 12 is mounted connected to the piston 4 through a crank mechanism 2, and capable of swinging. The cylinder is equipped with inlet 14 and outlet 15 channels and corresponding valves 16 and 17, a hole for the spark plug 19 and a ratchet wheel 22 with four teeth is installed, on which the intake 27, exhaust 28 and ignition protrusions 29 are made. Two pawls 6 and 7 of the gas distribution mechanism are installed on the body and an inlet hole is made for combustible mixture 8 and outlet 9 for exhaust gases. 9 ill.
The invention relates to mechanical engineering, in particular to four-stroke internal combustion engines and can be used in transport and stationary engine building.
A four-stroke internal combustion engine with forced purging is known (RF patent for invention No. 2310080, published November 10, 2007, Bulletin No. 31), containing a crankcase (housing), a cylinder with an annular cavity, a crankshaft with two eccentrics, pistons, connecting rods, a head cylinder and gas distribution mechanism. The crankcase has a cylinder with an annular cavity and a reed valve in the inlet port. The crankshaft is connected by the main connecting rod to the working piston, and on the eccentrics crankshaft Additional connecting rods are installed, connected to a ring-shaped purge piston. The inlet channel of the cylinder head is connected through a connecting channel to the volume formed by the annular cavity of the cylinder and the annular purge piston.
A four-stroke internal combustion engine is known (RF patent for invention No. 2028471, published 02/09/1995), which contains a cylinder, a piston located in it, connected to crankshaft using a connecting rod, a crankcase cavity communicated with the atmosphere by means of an inlet channel with a shut-off member, and a bypass channel with inlet and outlet holes, located with the possibility of connecting the crankcase cavity with the combustion chamber when the piston is at the bottom dead center, and a reverse valve, and the output one is equipped with a shut-off element made in the form of a cylindrical spool bushing connected to the crank shaft using a ball joint.
A disadvantage of the known engines is the high wear of the piston and cylinder, which leads to a decrease in the durability, reliability and efficiency of their operation.
The invention is aimed at increasing the durability, reliability and efficiency of the engine by reducing its wear.
This is achieved by the fact that a four-stroke internal combustion engine with an oscillating cylinder contains a stationary body on which a cylinder is mounted, connected to the piston through a crank mechanism and capable of oscillating. The cylinder is equipped with inlet and outlet channels and their corresponding valves, a hole for the spark plug, and a ratchet wheel with four teeth is installed, on which intake, exhaust and ignition protrusions are made. Two pawls of the gas distribution mechanism are installed on the body and there is an inlet hole for the combustible mixture and an outlet hole for exhaust gases.
The essence of the proposed invention is illustrated by drawings in Fig. 1 pictured appearance engine; fig. 2 - section A-A in Fig. 1; fig. 3 - top view of FIG. 1; fig. 4 - section BB in Fig. 3; fig. 5 - section B-B in Fig. 3; fig. 6 - top view of section D-D of Fig. 1 per cylinder; fig. 7 - bottom view Г-Г fig. 1 per ratchet wheel; fig. 8 - side view of the protrusion on the ratchet wheel; fig. 9 - engine operation diagram.
A four-stroke internal combustion engine with an oscillating cylinder contains a fixed housing 1, on which a crank mechanism 2 with a flywheel 3 and a piston 4 with a rod 5 are located. On the housing 1, two pawls 6 and 7 of the gas distribution mechanism are installed and an inlet hole 8 is made for the combustible mixture and an outlet 9 for exhaust gases with two spools, 10 and 11, respectively. The cylinder 12 is installed on the housing with the ability to swing on two support axles 13. The cylinder has an inlet channel 14 for the combustible mixture and an outlet channel 15 for exhaust gases, in which an inlet valve 16 for the combustible mixture and an outlet valve 17 for exhaust gases are installed. On the valve stems 16 and 17 there are rollers 18, holes are made for the spark plug 19 and an ignition contact 20 is installed. An axis 21 is attached to the cylinder, on which a ratchet wheel 22 of the gas distribution mechanism with teeth 23, 24, 25, 26 is mounted. fuel mixture inlet protrusion 27, exhaust gas outlet protrusion 28 and ignition protrusion 29 for closing ignition contact 20.
Swinging on the supporting axle shafts 13 during engine operation, the cylinder makes an oscillatory movement - one full oscillation per revolution of the crank mechanism, and the ratchet wheel mounted on the axis makes half a revolution during this time. Thus, for two revolutions of the engine flywheel, the ratchet wheel makes one revolution, which makes it possible to install gas distribution and ignition controls on the ratchet wheel during a four-stroke engine operating cycle.
THE ENGINE OPERATES AS follows.
When the engine is running, the piston 4 performs a reciprocating motion inside the cylinder 12, and the cylinder 12 itself swings on the supporting axle shafts 13, while the ratchet wheel 22, mounted on the axis 21 in the upper part of the cylinder 12, with the help of pawls 6, 7, rotates around The axis 21 and protrusions 27, 28, 29 control the intake valve 16, the exhaust valve 17 and the ignition contact 20. In this way, a four-stroke cycle of engine operation is carried out.
STARTING POSITION (Fig. 2, Fig. 3).
Piston 4 is at top dead center, and the axis 21 of the ratchet wheel 22 is in the middle position, while the pawl 6 is engaged with tooth 26, and the pawl 7 is engaged with tooth 24, while the inlet protrusion 27 and the outlet protrusion 28 of the ratchet wheel 22 are located so that that they do not press on the rollers 18 of the intake valve 16 and exhaust valve 17, that is, they are closed.
INTAKE STROKE (Fig. 9).
From the initial position, flywheel 3, having a moment of inertia from the previous cycle, rotates counterclockwise from 0° to 90°, while cylinder 12, together with axis 21, turns to the right, and ratchet wheel 22, held by pawl 6, rotates around tooth 26, and pawl 7 disengages with tooth 24, and so on until pawl 7 engages with tooth 23, while ratchet wheel 22 has rotated from 0° to 45°. At the beginning of the turn, the ratchet wheel 22, with its intake protrusion 27, runs over the roller 18 of the intake valve 16 and opens the valve. Next, the intake stroke continues. Flywheel 3 continues to move counterclockwise from 90° to 180°, while cylinder 12, together with axis 21, turns to the left, and ratchet wheel 22, supported by pawl 7, rotates around tooth 23, and pawl 6 disengages with tooth 26, and so until pawl 6 engages with tooth 25, while ratchet wheel 22 rotates from 45° to 90°. When the roller 18 moves away from the inlet lug 27 of the ratchet wheel 22, the inlet valve 16 closes. At this point, the intake stroke is completed and the compression stroke begins.
COMPRESSION STROKE (Fig. 9).
Flywheel 3 rotates counterclockwise from 180° to 270°, while cylinder 12, together with axis 21, turns to the left, and ratchet wheel 22, held by pawl 7, rotates around tooth 23, and pawl 6 disengages with tooth 25, and so on until pawl 6 engages tooth 24, and ratchet wheel 22 has rotated from 90° to 135°. The compression stroke then continues. Flywheel 3 continues to move counterclockwise from 270° to 360°, while cylinder 12, together with axis 21, turns to the right, and ratchet wheel 22, held by pawl 6, rotates around tooth 24, and pawl 7 disengages with tooth 23, and so on until the pawl 7 engages with the tooth 26, while the ratchet wheel 22 has rotated from 135° to 180° and, with its ignition protrusion 29, closes the ignition contact 20. The power stroke begins.
STROKE STROKE (Fig. 9).
Flywheel 3 rotates counterclockwise from 360° to 450°, while cylinder 12, together with axis 21, turns to the right, and ratchet wheel 22, held by pawl 6, rotates around tooth 24, and pawl 7 disengages with tooth 26, and so on until the pawl 7 engages with the tooth 25, while the ratchet wheel 22 has rotated from 180° to 225°. Then the stroke continues. Flywheel 3 continues to move counterclockwise from 450° to 540°, while cylinder 12, together with axis 21, turns to the left, and ratchet wheel 22, held by pawl 7, rotates around tooth 25, and pawl 6 disengages with tooth 24, and so on until pawl 6 engages with tooth 23, while ratchet wheel 22 rotates from 225° to 270°. At this point the power stroke is completed and the exhaust stroke begins.
EXHAUST STROKE (Fig. 9).
Flywheel 3 rotates counterclockwise from 540° to 630°, while cylinder 12, together with axis 21, turns to the left, and ratchet wheel 22, held by pawl 7, rotates around tooth 25, and pawl 6 disengages with tooth 23 and the release protrusion 17 of the ratchet wheel 22 runs over the roller 18 of the exhaust valve 28, and so on until the pawl 6 engages with the tooth 26, while the ratchet wheel 22 has rotated from 270° to 315°. Then the release stroke continues. Flywheel 3 continues to move counterclockwise from 630° to 720°, while cylinder 12, together with axis 21, turns to the right, and ratchet wheel 22, held by pawl 6, rotates around tooth 26, and pawl 7 disengages with tooth 25, and so on until the pawl 7 engages with the tooth 24, and the release protrusion 17 of the ratchet wheel 22 moves off the roller 18 of the exhaust valve 28 and closes the valve, while the ratchet wheel 22 rotates from 315° to 360°. This completes the release stroke. The engine returned to its original position.
Thanks to the suggested technical solution, which ensures the cylinder swings along with the piston, eliminates the eccentricity of the crank mechanism and thereby reduces the friction between the cylinder and the piston. This in turn increases the durability, reliability and efficiency of the engine.
A four-stroke internal combustion engine with an oscillating cylinder, containing a stationary body on which a cylinder is mounted connected to the piston through a crank mechanism and capable of oscillating, with inlet and outlet channels and corresponding valves, a hole for the spark plug and an installed ratchet wheel with four teeth, on which the intake, exhaust and ignition protrusions are made, and on the body two pawls of the gas distribution mechanism are installed and an inlet hole for the combustible mixture and an outlet hole for exhaust gases are made.
Similar patents:
The invention relates to engine building, in particular to the creation of internal combustion engines. The engine contains a hollow rod connecting the pistons, made with a diameter equal to the diameter of the piston, and equipped with zigzag, symmetrical, closed grooves of rectangular cross-section on both sides of the elongated hole for the passage of the intake pipeline in its central part, with which rollers contacted, mounted in the hubs of two bevel gears coaxial to the rod on rolling bearings, which are articulated with each other by a third bevel gear that transmits torque to the power take-off shaft.
Ehre wem Ehre gebührt👍🏻Bin Wilder Fan aber man muss zugeben er hat leider keine Chance gehabt Glückwunsch Furry
Schaut euch mal den boxkampf richtig an und ab dieser zeit als wilder am ohr getroffen wird dreht er sich bei jedem schlag von fury weg nicht normal mehr🙏
Ach ja..... Ali is the Greatest
OK er hat gewonnen (durch einen Treffer der Wilder das Gleichgewicht genommen hat, das kann im Schwergewicht immer passieren), nun einmal ehrlich, was für ein Niveau ist es insgesamt für das Boxen ? Eben, es ist erbärmlich im Vergleich zu wirkliche guten Boxern und Boxkämpfen.
Dann lieber Syncronschwimmer der Männer ansehen....da ist mehr Feuer drin
Fury super leistung👍 aber alle die jetzt wilder abschreiben langsam??? Das war nicht mehr wilder nach dem treffer am ohr kein gleichgewicht mehr und so kein richtiger stand zu boxen das ist sehr übel im kampf und ein grosser nachteil.
Wilder auf dem boden zusehen tut weh als fan😥
Wilder hat den Kampf verkauft so schlecht kann doch net sein ernst sein!!
Ali oder Tyson würden die beiden zerlegen
Wilder zu inaktiv und unbeweglich - nur auf den einen Schlag warten is zu wenig
Der Typ auf dem Thron ist Knossi 😂😂
Mike Tyson hätte sich nie im Leben von so einem Weißbrot fertig machen lassen.... So geht das nicht weiter ich kündige hä
Voll komisch alles
Weiß man schon welche Verletzung Wilder erlitten hat?
Soll das wirklich Boxen sein? Hat sich wie die Musik von heute entwickelt
Best Wrestling fight 2020! No Boxing.
Fury Wieder mit diesem spritzen Psychopath
Ekelhafter Typ der Fury
Der Herr segne dich du machst einen tollen Job unsern Jesus zu verkünden
Habe DAZN gerade gekündigt. Die haben alle meine Daten, Kontonummer, Adresse, Geburtsdatum, aber ich konnte den Kampf nicht gucken, weil ich keinen deutschen Pass habe! Absolut peinlicher Laden!
Wilder wurde raw doggy genommen
WILDER BLEIBT NO1!
Beide waren gut aber fury war diesen Kampf einfach besser aber ich glaube wenn fury ihn nicht so am Ohr getroffen hätte wäre der Kampf anders ausgegangen
Vallah wilder wird ihn noch auseinander nehmen
Ich feiere beide Boxer, ich weiß nicht ob ich mich freuen oder ärgern soll.. Bin einfach nur froh, dass wir zwei so großartige Boxer haben und sowas überhaupt erleben dürfen! Respekt an beide gg Fury
Uff die deutsche profi boxer community Wie lächerlich alle auf einmal voll profis geworden kennen sich am besten aus. XD Na dann ihr internet rambos boxt mal gegen wilder klappt sicher ;)
AJ vs Fury und ich sage euch voraus: AJ gewinnt.
Crazy, schade das Wilder verloren hat, aber Fury verdient gewonnen. 🥊🥊🥊👊🏼👍🏼
trotzdem respekt an wilder.. die ersten 2 runden waren relativ ausgeglichen. aber nach dem ohr treffer war wilder nicht mehr da aber konnte trotzdem auf beinen stehen. wer weiss wie lange er noch ausgehalten hätte wenn kein handtuch geflogen wäre.
Wilder hat so viel gelabert aber dann reingeschissen
Was für ein scheiss habt ihr denn da zusammengeschnitten 😄😄😄😄???
Fury wusste dass das Trommelfell von Wilder gerissen ist und hat das selbstverständlich ausgenutzt, wie es jeder gemacht hätte. Hätte trotzdem gerne gewusst wie der Kampf ausgegangen wäre, hätte Wilder nicht dieses Handicap gehabt. Trotzdem Respekt an Fury. Glanzleistung!
Seltsamster Mensch auf diesem Planeten
Kirmesboxer genau wie die Klitschko‘s. Sollten besser im Zirkus auftreten. Tyson, Hollyfield, Lewis das waren Boxer. Schade das der Boxsport Geschichte ist.
Dafür bin ich wach geblieben,Fury der dreckigste Boxer aller Zeiten. Der Box aufm Hinterkopf/Ohr war schon link,selbe bei Klitschko gemacht mehr als dreckig sein kann der nicht.
Fury ist maschine
TSCHIPSI-King, soso
Alhamdulilah ☝️❤
Wo sind die richtigen Jungs von damals... Heute nur noch steifes Schachspiel.....
Html Checkt meinen neuen Beat
Sehr schade das Wilder nicht gewonnen hat. Leider hat ihn der Lucky Punch getroffen und danach war er einfach KO. Passiert halt im Schwergewicht aber extrem bitter für ihn. Vieleicht sollte er nun seine Karriere beenden. Was soll er noch groß gewinnen nun ?? In Kampf 3 wird es bestimmt so laufen wie gegen Otto Wallin. Da muss er dann gegen die Ring und Punkte Richter boxen. Da kann er eigentlich nur verlieren und Joshua wird sich ihm so oder so nicht stellen. Wozu noch unnötig Kämpfe gegen Durchschnittsboxer?? (White und Co) . Außer zum Geld verdienen lohnt sich das für ihn nicht . Mit einer Niederlage kann man aufhören und sein Gesicht waren. War doch eine erfolgreiche Karriere und 1 Kampf kann man mit Pech mal verlieren. Er kann stolz sein auf das was er erreicht hat .
Und er will einen jungen Mike Tyson besiegen?
Tyson Fury: sieht aus wie ein großer, unsportlicher und langsamer Typ - und ist das exakte Gegenteil davon. Stark, ausdauernd, schnell, präzise.
So schade das so ein athleticscher afroamerikaner der sehe groß ist, meiner Meinung nach gegen so einen frechen schwabbel Tante zu verlieren. Sehr schade 😾
Damit Fury überhaupt noch kämpfen darf der Scheiß kokser
was ist dat denn für ne peinliche kasper show
SCHNAPP IM DIER Johnny?😎
Glückwunsch an Fury, verdienter Sieg... finde auch gut das Wilder beim Interview nicht auf das Ohr eingegangen ist sondern klar gessgt hat: "der bessere Mann hat heute gewonnen", aber Wilder hat Herz bewiesen und ne menge eingesteckt und nochmal für alle zum mitschreiben , Wilder hat ein TROMMELFELLRISS , damit ist überhaupt nicht zu spaßen und erst recht nicht im Boxen, wenn das Gleichgewicht durch so eine verletzung so beeinträchtigt wird , ich glaube wir hätten ohne die verletzung ein sehr Fight gesehen, bin gespannt auf den 3. Kampf der beiden
canyoumakeit.redbull.com/de-de/applications/1716 Hi Freunde,wir sind team NRG und haben die Redbull Challenge can you make it? mitgemacht.Wir vertreten team Deutschlamd sowie RWTH Aachen Uni.Wir brauchen eure Unterstützung und würden uns freuen wenn ihr für unser Bewerbungsvideo durch den obigen Link voten würdet.NRG dankt Euch!😍
Ich weiß nicht wirklich was ich von dem Kampf halten soll.... Viele Schläge auf den Hinterkopf und der Abbruch, es bleibt abzuwarten wie schwerwiegend die Innenohr Verletzung ist... Sollte es keine gravierende Verletzung sein, war der Abbruch zu früh. Im ersten Kampf hätte der Ringrichter auch sofort abbrechen können, als Tyson besinnungslos da lag + Das Blut gelecke war irgendwie drüber. Weiß auch immer noch nicht was ich von Tyson halten soll, Mann der Comebacks und trotzdem ein komischer Kautz
Die Zerstörung..
McGregor vs Fury has to happen!!
Check mal mein kanal ab bitte
Hätte echt keiner gedacht das er so stark kämpft 👍🏾☝🏼
Gekaufter Kampf wilder boxt viel anders
Tyson Fury ist so ein echter Rocky Balboa Charackter
Pech für Wilders, daß sein Trommelfell platzte. Da konnte er nur noch wegen dem komplett ausgefallenen Gleichgewichtssinn durch den Ring taumeln. Ich hatte das auch schon und es ist das Aus! Schade!
You won’t hear this at any competition today. Meanwhile, in the 20-30s, many modellers used a steam engine on ship, car and even aircraft models. The most popular was the steam engine with an oscillating cylinder. It is easy to manufacture. However, let’s give the floor to the author - modeler Alexander Nikolaevich ILYIN: at the request of the editors, he made and tested a ship model with such an engine
Reliability and safety are the main criteria that guided me when choosing the type of steam engine. A steam engine with an oscillating cylinder, as tests have shown, with proper, careful manufacturing of the model can withstand even double overloads.
But it’s not for nothing that I emphasized accuracy - it is the key to success. Try to follow all our recommendations exactly.
Now let's talk about the steam engine. Figures I and II show the principle of its operation and structure.
On the frame 11, a cylinder (parts 1, 2 and 13) with a spool plate 8 is hinged. For the entry and exit of steam, a hole 3 is drilled in the cylinder and the spool plate. In addition, another spool plate 4 is rigidly installed on the frame. holes. In progress steam engine, when the cylinder hole is aligned with the right hole of the spool plate 4, steam enters the cylinder (see Fig. I, phase A). The expanding steam pushes the piston 13 down - to the so-called bottom dead center (phase B). Thanks to flywheel 9, the movement of the piston at this point will not stop; carried away by inertia, it rises upward, pushing out the exhaust steam. As soon as the cylinder hole coincides with the left hole of plate 4, steam will begin to escape into the atmosphere (phase B).
The spool plates, as you understand, must be tightly fitted to each other, otherwise steam will penetrate into the gap and the engine efficiency will noticeably decrease. Therefore, a spring is installed on axis 7, pressing plate 4 to plate 8. In addition to the main function, this unit also serves as a safety valve. When the pressure in the boiler increases for any reason, the spring will compress, the plates will move apart and excess steam will escape. Therefore, the spring is tightened with a nut so that the motor shaft can make several revolutions by inertia. Check this by turning it by hand.
Steam enters the machine through tube 5. One end of it is connected to the inlet hole on the spool plate 4, and the other has a hose 6 connected to the steam boiler. Any rubber hose that does not contain thread or wire reinforcing elements is suitable for our engine. But the best thing is from the car's gas line.
The hose on the steam line is not secured in any way. This is also a safety measure. As the steam pressure increases, the hose will break off the tube and the pressure in the boiler will instantly drop.
The main working part of the machine is cylinder 1. It is sealed at the top with a tin washer 2 and closed at the bottom with a piston 13.
A rod-piece of a knitting needle with a washer at the end is soldered into the piston. Through its hole passes the crank pin 14, soldered to the propeller shaft 10, also made of a knitting needle. A flywheel 9 is mounted on the shaft. The steam engine shaft rotates in a plain bearing 12, which is soldered into the frame.
For the cylinder, select a brass tube with a diameter of 12-16 mm. Its inner surface should be thoroughly polished. It is advisable to do this on lathe a rod with a gauze swab rubbed with GOI paste or any other for polishing metals. As a result of processing, the diameter of the tube at the ends may be larger than in the middle. Therefore, only the middle part is used for the cylinder, increasing the length of the workpiece accordingly.
Solder a tin cap to the finished cylinder, rinse the assembled part with kerosene and begin working on the piston. It consists of the piston itself, the rod and the washer.
It is advisable to make the piston from bronze or cast iron. Turn the workpiece on a lathe to such a diameter that it fits tightly into the cylinder. Try it on without removing it from the chuck, and then drill a hole for the rod. Now cut the workpiece to the required length and solder the rod into it. Solder a washer to the rod.
If the diameter of the piston turns out to be larger than necessary, it is ground off with a finely notched file and sandpaper, and then polished. This is done on a lathe using a flannelette strip and polishing paste.
It is advisable to cut the spool plates from brass with a thickness of 2-3 mm. For a tighter fit to the cylinder, make a notch in the spool plate 8. And then drill a hole for axis 7 - a screw with a diameter of 3 mm with a countersunk head (the figure shows the plate markings).
On spool plate 4, using a compass and a core, mark the locations for the inlet and outlet holes. Drill them out and start sanding both plates with sandpaper. Then they are also polished.
Spool plate 8 must be soldered to the cylinder. First, insert the axle into it, tie the plate to the cylinder with a thin wire, lubricate the soldering areas with flux, cover them with pieces of solder and heat them on a gas burner. The solder will spread over the fluxed surface and grab the parts. If the cylinder cap becomes unsoldered when heated, it doesn’t matter - it’s easy to solder it again.
You need to drill holes in the cylinder for steam. The conductor for them can be steam distribution hole 3 in plate B.
The assembled unit is mounted on a frame 11, bent from tin. When making it, try to accurately maintain the distance between axis 7 and bearing axis 12.
To the finished frame, solder the spool plate 4, tube 5 of the steam line 6, bearing 12. The hole for the shaft 10 is drilled in place, and the distance between the frame parts is selected depending on the size of the flywheel 9.
The flywheel can be any steel or bronze part, the dimensions of which are no less than those indicated in our figure. Bearing 12 is best machined from bronze.
Now let's talk about the manufacture of a steam boiler (Fig. III).
Bend shell 1 (side surface) of the boiler from tin. Solder two slightly concave tin bottoms 2 into its end parts. The shell is made as follows. Stretch a strip of tin from a tin can, 80 mm wide and about 200 mm long, around a thick rod several times - the workpiece will take the shape of a regular ring. Cut a strip of the required length from it and solder a cylinder with a diameter of 40 mm. Bottoms 2 are made in the shape of an already soldered boiler. An ordinary flat bottom will not be able to withstand steam pressure. Therefore, give the workpiece a spherical shape. This is done with light blows of a hammer with a convex head on a thick wooden slab (you can also use soft metal, for example, lead).
Solder the bottoms with the convex side inward, bend the edges and solder.
There is a special fitting on the boiler for filling water. It consists of an MZ-M4 nut 10-12 mm long (part 3) and a corresponding screw that acts as a plug. Fill the boiler using a medical syringe.
The steam formed in the boiler exits through hole 4 (its diameter is 6 mm). Along with the steam, droplets of water usually fly out, which interferes with the operation of the steam engine. Therefore, you need to install a special catch cap 5 above the outlet hole, and solder the steam pipe nozzle 6 to it. Then the droplets flying out of the boiler will settle on the walls of the hood, and only dry steam will enter the pipe.
Check the finished boiler for leaks. Lubricate all sealed seams with soap foam and blow into the boiler through the steam line. In those places where they appear bubble, needs re-soldering.
Solder legs 7 to the boiler and bend a dry fuel burner from tin.
The steam engine is ready.
We have already said that when used correctly, our steam engine is completely safe. However, precautions during testing are not superfluous. First of all, remember that the steam generated in the boiler must constantly leave it: be spent on the operation of the piston, and then flow out through the hole in the spool plate. If this does not happen, you need to immediately extinguish the fire, wait until the boiler has completely cooled down, find and fix the problem. This safety rule must be strictly observed. And we advise you to invite some knowledgeable adults before starting the tests.
Connect the steam engine to the boiler with a hose. Do not secure the ends of the hose to the nozzles. To prevent the burner flame from damaging the hose, wrap it in foil. Pour 30-40 ml into the steam boiler boiled water and light the burner with two (no more) tablets of dry fuel. Slowly begin to turn the shaft of the steam engine. After about 30 - 40 seconds, the water in the boiler will begin to rustle, and it will begin to drip from the exhaust hole of the machine. hot water. Then steam will come out of the slot in the spool device.
A properly made steam engine starts working in 1-2 minutes. Make sure that the water in the boiler does not boil away, otherwise it will melt down.
Install a proven steam engine on the model. It can be ready-made, purchased, or made with your own hands from tin or polystyrene.
Drawings by M. SIMAKOV
I will duplicate from the forum:
the car is installed on a boat there, which is not necessary for us
BOAT WITH STEAM ENGINE
Case manufacturing
The hull of our boat is carved from dry, soft and light wood: linden, aspen, alder; Birch is harder and more difficult to process. You can also take spruce or pine, but they are easily pricked, which complicates the work.
Having chosen a log of suitable thickness, trim it with an ax and saw off a piece of the required size. The sequence of manufacturing the body is shown in the figures (see table 33, left, top).
Cut the deck out of dry boards. Make the deck slightly convex on top, like on real ships, so that any water that gets on it flows overboard. Using a knife, cut shallow grooves into the deck to give the deck surface the appearance of planks.
Boiler construction
Having cut out a piece of tin measuring 80x155 mm, bend the edges about 10 mm wide in opposite directions. Having bent the tin into a ring, connect the bent edges into a seam and solder it (see table, middle, right). Bend the workpiece to form an oval, cut two oval bottoms along it and solder them.
Punch two holes in the top of the boiler: one for the water-filling plug, the other for the passage of steam into the steam chamber. A dry steamer is a small round jar made of tin. From the steam chamber comes a small tube welded from tin, onto the end of which another rubber tube is pulled, through which the steam goes to the cylinder of the steam engine.
The firebox is only suitable for an alcohol burner. From below, the firebox has a tin bottom with curved edges. The figure shows a firebox pattern. Dotted lines indicate fold lines. You cannot solder the firebox; its side walls are fastened with two or three small rivets. The lower edges of the walls are bent outward and covered by the edges of the tin bottom.
The burner has two wicks made of cotton wool and a long funnel-shaped tube soldered from tin. Through this tube you can add alcohol to the burner without removing the boiler with the firebox from the boat or the burner from the firebox. If the boiler is connected to the cylinder of the steam engine with a rubber tube, the firebox with the boiler can be easily removed from the boat.
If there is no alcohol, you can make a firebox that will run on fine pre-lit charcoal. Coal is poured into a tin box with a lattice bottom. The box with coal is installed in the firebox. To do this, the boiler will have to be made removable and secured above the firebox with wire clamps.
Making machine
The boat model has a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder. This is a simple yet well-functioning model. How it works can be seen in table 34, on the right, above.
The first position shows the moment of steam inlet when the hole in the cylinder coincides with the steam inlet hole. In this position, steam enters the cylinder, presses on the piston and pushes it down. The steam pressure on the piston is transmitted through the connecting rod and crank to the propeller shaft. As the piston moves, the cylinder rotates.
When the piston does not reach the bottom point a little, the cylinder will stand straight and the intake of steam will stop: the hole in the cylinder no longer coincides with the inlet hole. But the rotation of the shaft continues, due to the inertia of the flywheel. The cylinder turns more and more, and when the piston begins to rise upward, the cylinder hole will coincide with another, the exhaust hole. The exhaust steam in the cylinder is pushed out through the outlet hole.
When the piston rises to its highest position, the cylinder will become straight again and the exhaust port will close. At the beginning of the reverse movement of the piston, when it begins to descend, the hole in the cylinder will again coincide with the steam inlet, steam will rush into the cylinder again, the piston will receive a new push, and everything will repeat all over again.
Cut the cylinder from a brass, copper or steel tube with a hole diameter of 7-8 mm or from an empty cartridge case of the corresponding diameter. The tube should have smooth inner walls.
Cut the connecting rod out of a brass or iron plate 1.5-2 mm thick, tinning the end without a hole.
Cast the piston from lead directly in the cylinder. The casting method is exactly the same as for the steam engine described earlier. When the casting lead is melted, hold the connecting rod clamped with pliers in one hand and pour the lead into the cylinder with the other hand. Immediately immerse the tinned end of the connecting rod into the still uncured lead to the pre-marked depth. It will be firmly sealed into the piston. Make sure that the connecting rod is immersed exactly plumb and in the center of the piston. When the casting has cooled, push the piston and connecting rod out of the cylinder and carefully clean it.
Cut the cylinder cover from brass or iron with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm.
The steam distribution device of a steam engine with an oscillating cylinder consists of two plates: cylinder steam distribution plate A, which is soldered to the cylinder, and steam distribution plate B, soldered to the rack (frame). They are best made from brass or copper and only as a last resort from iron (see table, left, top).
The plates must fit tightly to each other. To do this, they scrounge up. It's done like this. Take out the so-called test tile or take a small mirror. Cover its surface with a very thin and even layer of black oil paint or soot, wiped off with vegetable oil. The paint is spread across the surface of the mirror with your fingers. Place the scraped plate on a mirror surface coated with paint, press it with your fingers and move it across the mirror from side to side for a while. Then remove the plate and scrape all protruding areas covered with paint with a special tool - a scraper. A scraper can be made from an old triangular file by sharpening its edges as shown in the figure. If the metal from which the steam distribution plates are made is soft (brass, copper), then the scraper can be replaced with a penknife.
When all the protruding paint-covered areas of the plate have been removed, wipe off the remaining paint and place the plate back on the testing surface. Now the paint will cover a large surface of the plate. Very good. Continue scraping until the entire surface of the plate is covered with small, frequent specks of paint. After you have attached the steam distribution plates, solder a screw inserted into the hole drilled in the plate to the cylinder plate A. Solder the plate with the screw to the cylinder. Then solder the cylinder cover. Solder the other plate to the frame of the machine.
Cut the frame from a brass or iron plate 2-3 mm thick and secure it to the bottom of the boat with two screws.
Make the propeller shaft from steel wire 3-4 mm thick or from the axle of a “constructor” set. The shaft rotates in a tube soldered from tin. Brass or copper washers with holes exactly along the shaft are soldered to its ends. Pour oil into the tube so that water cannot enter the boat even when the upper end of the tube is located below the water level. The propeller shaft tube is secured in the boat hull using an obliquely soldered round plate. Fill all the cracks around the tube and the mounting plate with molten resin (varnish) or cover it with putty.
The crank is made from a small iron plate and a piece of wire and is secured to the end of the shaft by soldering.
Choose a ready-made flywheel or cast it from zinc or lead, as for the valve steam engine described earlier. On the table, the circle shows the method of casting in a tin jar, and the rectangle shows the method of casting in a clay mold.
The propeller is cut from thin brass or iron and soldered to the end of the shaft. Bend the blades at an angle of no more than 45° to the propeller axis. With a greater inclination, they will not be screwed into the water, but will only scatter it to the sides.
Assembly
When you have made a cylinder with a piston and connecting rod, a machine frame, a crank and a propeller shaft with a flywheel, you can begin marking and then drilling the inlet and outlet holes of the frame's steam distribution plate,
To mark, you must first drill a hole in the cylinder plate with a 1.5 mm drill. This hole, drilled in the center of the top of the plate, should fit into the cylinder as close as possible to the cylinder cover (see table 35). Insert a piece of pencil lead into the drilled hole so that it protrudes 0.5 mm from the hole.
Place the cylinder, piston and connecting rod in place. Place a spring on the end of the screw soldered into the cylinder plate and screw on the nut. The cylinder with graphite inserted into the hole will be pressed against the frame plate. If you now rotate the crank, as shown in the table above, the graphite will draw a small arc on the plate, at the ends of which you need to drill a hole. These will be the inlet (left) and outlet (right) holes. Make the inlet hole slightly smaller than the outlet. If you drill the inlet hole with a drill with a diameter of 1.5 mm, then the outlet can be drilled with a drill with a diameter of 2 mm. Once marking is complete, remove the cylinder and remove the lead. Carefully scrape off any burrs left after drilling along the edges of the hole.
If you don’t have a small drill or a drill at hand, then, with some patience, you can drill holes with a drill made from a thick needle. Break off the eye of the needle and drive it halfway into the wooden handle. Sharpen the protruding end of the eyelet on a hard block, as shown in the circle on the table. By rotating the handle with the needle in one direction or the other, you can slowly drill holes. This is especially easy when the plates are made of brass or copper.
The steering wheel is made of tin, thick wire and iron 1 mm thick (see table, right, below). To pour water into the boiler and alcohol into the burner, you need to solder a small funnel.
To prevent the model from falling on its side on dry land, it is mounted on a stand.
Testing and starting up the machine
After the model is completed, you can begin testing the steam engine. Pour oxen into the cauldron to 3/4 height. Insert wicks into the burner and pour alcohol. Lubricate the bearings and rubbing parts of the machine with liquid machine oil. Wipe the cylinder with a clean cloth or paper and lubricate it too. If the steam engine is built accurately, the surfaces of the plates are well lapped, the steam inlet and outlet holes are correctly marked and drilled, there are no distortions and the machine rotates easily by the screw, it should start running immediately.
Observe the following precautions when starting the machine:
1. Do not unscrew the water filler plug when there is steam in the boiler.
2. Do not make the spring tight and do not tighten it too tightly with the nut, as this, firstly, increases the friction between the plates and, secondly, there is a risk of the boiler exploding. It must be remembered that if the steam pressure in the boiler is too high, a cylinder plate with a properly selected spring is like a safety valve: it moves away from the frame plate, the excess steam comes out, and thanks to this, the pressure in the boiler is maintained normal all the time.
3. Do not let the steam engine stand for a long time if the water in the boiler is boiling. The resulting steam must be consumed all the time.
4. Do not let all the water in the boiler boil away. If this happens, the boiler will melt.
5. Do not fasten the ends of the rubber tube too tightly, which can also be a good preventive measure against the formation of too much water in the boiler. high pressure. But keep in mind that the thin rubber tube will be inflated by the steam pressure. Take a strong ebonite tube, in which electrical wires are sometimes laid, or wrap an ordinary rubber tube with insulating tape,
6. To protect the boiler from rust, fill it boiled water. To make the water in the boiler boil faster, the easiest way is to pour hot water.
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