What is a starter in a car? What is a car starter: device and principle of operation. The principle of operation of a car starter

And initially the car was born without a starter - the engines were started with a crank, and this was considered the norm. Actually, the cars of the dawn of motorization had enough other, more pressing problems, against the background of which turning the handle before the trip was not the most significant. However, the difficult and unsafe starting of the engine by hand was still an obvious bottleneck of the first self-running carts, and in 1911 the American mechanical engineer Charles Kettering proposed the design of an electric starter. And already in 1912, the first car powered by Kettering’s invention, the Cadillac Model 30, was produced.

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However, despite this, a technical revolution did not occur - which can be traced at least by the famous Ford T, which, produced in millions of copies, was wound up with a handle until 1919... Actually, the reason was to a large extent that Charles Kettering, crowned the inventor of the starter, proposed to Cadillac a completely different design than is used everywhere these days!

Its design was complex and unreliable, since the starter, after starting the engine, was not disconnected from the crankshaft, but switched to generator mode, and the leading American automakers of that era reacted coolly to the idea. The reason for Cadillac's support for Kettering's invention lay in the personality of the company's founder, Henry Leland, whose close friend was seriously injured in 1910 by the reverse jerk of the crank when the ignition was too early and died as a result...

A technical mini-revolution in the automobile industry, thanks to the starter, did happen - but four years later, in 1916. Namely, when another American engineer, Vincent Hugo Bendix, proposed dividing the generator and starter into two individual nodes, and connect the latter to the engine only for a short time - using an overrunning clutch, known to this day as a “Bendix”.

Starter design

All car starters are very similar to each other. If you understand the device of anyone, you will understand them all. Even Matiz, even Kamaz...

The basis of any starter is a simple electric motor. Current is supplied to the rotor (aka “armature”) by powerful copper-graphite brushes, and the magnetic force of the stator is provided either by electromagnets or permanent magnets. Electrical circuits Most modern starters do not have any fundamental differences - all starters are connected to the car's electrical system at three points - the power plus from the battery, the ground through the body, and the control plus from the ignition switch. In fact, only the power expressed in dimensions differs.

On the cylindrical body of the starter there is a smaller “barrel” - this is the so-called “retractor relay”. It performs two functions - in fact, it supplies power to the starter, having powerful contacts that can withstand currents of hundreds of amperes, and also engages the starter shaft with the engine shaft through a rocker arm and a Bendix overrunning clutch.

This clutch works on the principle of a classic bicycle hub - that is, the starter can turn the engine, but once the engine has started, it will not “drag along” the starter, spinning up at destructive high speeds.

Visual 3D animation of the starter design

More noticeable differences between one starter model and another lie in the design of the front rotor support. The classic device is when the rotor axis is installed in the starter on two bearings - support bushings made of a bronze-graphite alloy. These bushings are located, respectively, in the front and rear starter covers.

In principle, this “double-support” design is the most reliable and correct. But there are often “single-support” starters (in garage jargon they are often not very correctly called UNSUPPORTED), in which the rear support of the rotor shaft is located, as it should be, in the rear cover of the starter, but the front cover is missing altogether.

In this case, the front support becomes the engine clutch housing or gearbox housing, into which the support sleeve is pressed. The starter is installed in its place in the car - and the shaft rests on two bushings, as it should. As a rule, such a solution is used to reduce the size of components, and in principle, as long as everything is in order, it is no worse than the classic one. But if the front support bushing in the gearbox housing breaks, it is much more difficult to replace it - this is done by car and sometimes in very inconvenient conditions. Whereas in a two-bearing starter, the bushings are changed on a workbench, where everything is visible and easily accessible.

Another fundamental design point that distinguishes starter models from each other is the gearbox. More precisely, its absence or presence, and if present, its type. The fact is that the transmission of torque from the starter rotor to the engine flywheel can be carried out directly or through a gearbox built into the starter.

The “direct” option is when the Bendix gear, which rotates the engine flywheel crown, is located directly on the axis of the starter rotor. This design is quite archaic, characterized by excessive dimensions and weight, as well as huge current consumption, but it still occurs. Gear starters are much more efficient, lighter and more compact. In them, the moment is transmitted to the flywheel crown either through one intermediate gear or through a planetary gear with even greater deceleration.

"Planetary" starters are the most common today. With them, to start the engine, a battery with almost half the capacity and starting current required for the same motor with a starter operating directly is enough.

Starter repair example

Let's move on from theory to a real unit that requires repair. In our case, the symptoms of the malfunction were as follows: the starter began to rotate the engine very sluggishly, regardless of the state of charge of the battery. At the same time, being removed from the engine and connected by starting wires to the battery, it rotated vigorously. The well-functioning engine somehow managed to start even with such a sluggish rotation, but at some point the starter stopped completely and emitted smoke...

After removing the back cover, a couple of tablespoons of black dust spilled out of the starter housing. Therefore, the first diagnosis is brushes. We remove the brush assembly, remove the housing with magnets (which auto electricians call among themselves a “bulb”), and remove the rotor.

After blowing all the parts compressed air and washing in gasoline, it became clear that the brushes were almost completely worn out, and their remains were almost short-circuited with graphite powder. The force of the springs pressing the remains of the brushes weakened, the contact resistance increased, the brush holders and springs heated up until they turned blue, melted, the coils closed and the brushes froze.

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We pick up the brush assembly as a sample and go to the nearest office for the repair of starters and generators, where we ask them to pick up a similar part. The complete brush assembly costs us 400 rubles, which, considering the cost of a new starter from 4 to 5 thousand, is quite inexpensive!

We clean the rotor and assess the condition of the commutator - the slip ring along which the brushes operate. Wear is noticeable to the naked eye (shown by arrows in the photo), but the commutator can still work after replacing the brushes. We do without a groove, sanding it with fine sandpaper - that's enough.

In general, wear of the rotor commutator is a serious problem. In principle, under normal conditions, the commutator of any starter is capable of replacing a couple of sets of brushes, but if its contact lamellas become very thin, the rotor goes to waste. This part is expensive, it is not easy to purchase it separately, and it is rational to replace it only for free - if a similar starter with a live rotor turns up from old stocks of auto junk at home or from friends... Because if the collector is completely killed, there is usually no living space on the starter.

We inspect the overrunning clutch, otherwise known as “Bendix” (the name, by the way, comes from the manufacturer Bendix). We rotate its gear manually. It spins one way, but not the other. We move it back and forth along the axis of the shaft - it moves easily, without jamming. In our case with the Bendix everything is okay, that’s how it should be.

Meanwhile, the failure of the overrunning clutch is also a serious malfunction, since it is easy to buy the required modification only for starters of common models - problems may arise with finding a “Bendix”... The main typical reason for the malfunction of the clutch is the wear of the springs and rollers inside it, due to why it slips without blocking when rotating in the working direction. As a result, the starter hums and spins, but the crankshaft stops. This malfunction is easily diagnosed - the Bendix rotates manually in both directions, when it should only rotate in one direction. In a good way, the overrunning clutch in this case must be replaced, since it has a non-separable design. Although some enthusiasts flare its body, stretch the “trampled” springs, and cut new rollers from hardened rods, the result of this fuss is most often short-lived.

Since the rotor has been removed, we simultaneously assess the condition of the planetary gearbox. We take out the gears, wash them with gasoline, and inspect them. Everything is in order, there are no complaints about the gearbox. Apply a light coat of CV joint grease to the gears and their bearings.

Note that the gearbox is a fairly reliable starter unit. It happens that the axes of the satellite gears are cut off or the outer gear ring bursts - but this happens rarely and most often due to initial defects in the metal or its processing, and not because of the loads during everyday work. For example, in planetary starter gearboxes, the outer gear ring, called the “crown,” is often made of plastic and is quite durable (in our case, as can be seen in the photo below, the “crown” is metal).

Ideally, as a gearbox lubricant, special compounds for planetary gears or special consistent low-temperature compounds, but they are expensive and rare - it is irrational to buy them for a one-time job, where you will need one gram out of the entire expensive tube. Therefore, it is quite acceptable to use a common lubricant for CV joints or a good imported lubricant for hub bearings. The main thing is to apply it in a very small amount - there is no need to fill the gearbox! The abundance of lithol, which thickens strongly in the cold, is pressed between the teeth of the gears, causing an excessive current surge and even threatening to break the plastic “crown”...

Now there is more tricky work to be done. It would be unwise not to evaluate the condition of the solenoid relay contacts once the starter has been removed and gutted. But if to disassemble the starter we only needed 8, 10 keys, and a Phillips screwdriver, then we can only open the traction relay with a 100-watt soldering iron. Wires come out of the relay, pass through the contact pins in the cover, and are soldered externally. Therefore, after unscrewing the two Phillips screws of the cover, it will be possible to lift it only by heating the solder one by one on the two contacts, shown in the photo with arrows. In fact, this is a simple procedure, and it can be done many times if necessary.

We are lucky - our contacts are in order. We lightly refresh them by rubbing them with a wad of sandpaper held in the “duckbills.” After this, we warm up the pass-through pistons on the lid one by one with a soldering iron, and sharply slam the lid on the table - by inertia, the remains of the molten solder fly out of the pistons, the holes are freed, and now the lid can be put back on the protruding wires and soldered back.

By the way, a serious mistake made by car owners who carry out repairs and maintenance of the starter themselves is to lubricate the solenoid relay core. This unit does not need lubrication at all - at most, you can lightly lubricate the core and its socket motor oil and wipe almost dry - purely to reduce the likelihood of corrosion. And any greases in this unit are contraindicated - in the cold, even the best and cold-resistant ones can jam the core. The gap between the solenoid relay must be clean and dry!

We assemble the starter in the reverse order, not forgetting to lubricate it (also without fanaticism!) rear hub rotor. Can the unit be installed on a car? You can, but first let's do one more thing!

The fact is that in the newly acquired brush assembly the brushes are even parallelepipeds. And the collector is cylindrical, and even has acquired the shape of a not quite regular cylinder due to wear. And, in a good way, the working edges of the brushes should have semicircular grooves to increase the contact area, plus they should get used to the real profile of the commutator.

Therefore, to prevent the first activation of the starter on the engine from causing excessive heating of the commutator and brushes due to the passage of large current through the reduced contact patch, we will carry out a light grinding-in. Let's take the wires for “lighting up”, and with their help we connect the starter, lying on the table, to the battery, and turn it idle for a minute or two, intermittently.

That's it now. We install the starter on the engine and enjoy a quick and confident start.

Have you ever had to deal with starter repair?

The car starter device ensures that the engine can be started from the passenger compartment using the ignition key in any weather conditions. Most modern starters are similar in principle of operation and design. All of them, in fact, are high-power electric motors of short-term operation (10 s at normal temperature, 15 s in winter). The starting cycle consists of three attempts with an interval of 30 s between them. Since the car has a single source of electricity (battery), the designers chose a DC electric motor for the starters.

Schematic diagram

The engine is started by turning the flywheel crown, to which the starter gear is connected. It engages its teeth with the flywheel only when the retractor relay is activated, spins the flywheel with a powerful force (demonstrated in the video), after which it returns to its previous unengaged state. The principle of operation of the starter is based on the movement of an overrunning clutch, called a bendix, on the shaft when the relay is activated.

As soon as the speed of the flywheel becomes higher than the speed of the electric motor (which indicates that the car's engine is starting), the Bendix gear is thrown back, disengaging from the flywheel. For this purpose, there are helical splines on the starter shaft. The starter's operation is short-term; after the gear is thrown away, it does not participate in the movement of the car. This is ensured by the design - the gear rotates freely only in one direction.

Thus, the sequence of actions when starting a car engine is as follows:

1. the ignition key closes the circuit that supplies voltage to the starter relay windings;
2. the Bendix gear moves longitudinally along the shaft, meshing with the flywheel gear (which is what the operating principle of this unit is based on);
3. simultaneously with the movement, a circuit is closed that supplies voltage to the windings of the starter motor;
4. When the car engine is running steadily, the Bendix gear is thrown back to its original position.

In various modifications, designers increase the service life of the car starting unit by changing the commutator (the brushes last longer) and using mixed excitation of the windings. The reliability of tripping is increased by a special relay consisting of two windings with the same number of turns. The operating principle is based on compensation of opposite poles, in which the core is demagnetized, after which the power of the return spring becomes sufficient to return the armature to its original state. The gear disengages from the flywheel, and the power contacts also open. The video shows the operation of the components of a classic starter; other types of units have a similar effect but differ in size.

Types of starters

The differences between starters of various modifications lie in the design of the engagement devices; the electrical part is the same for all. The principle of operation and the design of two main components are different: a friction shock absorber and an automatic release mechanism.

Classic version

The operating principle of a classic type starter imposes restrictions on the characteristics of the clutch gear and the diameter of the flywheel. The gear pair cannot have a tooth ratio higher than 16/18, which requires the use of sequential excitation electric motor windings. The disadvantage of a classic starter is low efficiency, high heating, and a bulky excitation winding. Mode idle move is dangerous for the device, since the electric motor can “go wild”.
The advantage of a car starter with independent excitation is increased efficiency, reduced size, and no overheating. They obtain independent excitation in three ways, taking into account the operating principle of the electric motor:

• connecting the winding to a current source independent of the armature (controlled excitation);
• installation on the stator permanent magnets(uncontrollable excitement);
• parallel connection of the winding (parallel excitation).

With planetary gearbox

Only the second option is suitable for the car, improved by a planetary gearbox built into the starter housing. The advantages of this type of design are as follows:

• The drop in battery voltage when starting the internal combustion engine does not affect the magnetic field of the electric motor;
• a multi-pole magnetic system is more compact than an electromagnetic system;
• the operating principle of the magnetic system allows you to increase efficiency;
• cheap ferrous powders, from which magnets are made, reduce the cost of the starter;
• planetary gearbox adapts the characteristics of the electric motor to the crankshaft speed;
• During a cold start, less current is consumed and starting reliability increases.

The operating principle of a planetary gearbox involves high gear wear. To increase the service life, the main gear is molded from thermosetting plastic under pressure and reinforced with bronze. Noise during operation is reduced, strength and wear resistance are increased. The use of hard graphite in commutator brushes and the removal of copper powder from the material increased the overhaul period of this unit. There are types of drive mechanisms: inertial, electromechanical, combined. Couplings freewheel There are ratchet, roller, friction-ratchet.

In all cars with an engine internal combustion, there is such a part as a starter. With its help, it is possible to start the engine at the initial stage. A fairly simple starter design ensures its operation is as clear as possible.

The part is a small four-band electric motor. It provides the initial rotation of the crankshaft to set the required engine speed. In most cases, a power of 3...4 kW is sufficient for the operation of the unit. The electric motor consumes constant voltage, powered by car battery. Recharge occurs through several brushes.

It is customary to distinguish two types of devices:

1. With built-in gearbox. Most experts recommend using this particular type, since the starter operates with a reduced current requirement and greater efficiency. This design starts rotation crankshaft even with reduced battery charge. The presence of permanent magnets allows you to reduce possible problems with winding to a minimum. However, during long cranking there is a risk of the drive gear failing. This happens in most cases due to a manufacturing defect.
2. Without gearbox. The absence of an intermediate unit in the form of a gearbox ensures that rotation is transmitted directly from the starter to the crankshaft. The principle of operation of the starter of this design is similar to the previous one, but due to the simplicity of the configuration it has increased maintainability. It should be noted that in this design, when voltage is applied to the nodes, the gears engage instantly, which leads to faster ignition. Such starters have greater endurance, and their failure occurs less frequently than gear units. Negative old is poor performance at low temperatures.

One of the progressive innovations of the design is the presence of a James planetary gearbox. It ensures the start of passenger gasoline power plants up to 4.5...5.0 l, diesel engines up to 1.8...2.0 l, as well as small modern trucks. At the same time, the total mass of the unit is reduced by selected models up to 40%.

Node device

To carry out repairs, correct operation electrical system and ensuring long-term operation of vehicle components, it is necessary to know the structure of the starter retractor relay and its other elements.

• Frame in most cases it is made in the form of a cylinder, includes field windings, as well as a core.
• Anchor It is made from a high-alloy steel alloy and has the form of a shaft with ground landing surfaces for bearings. A core with collector plates is pressed into its central part.
• Solenoid relay transmits voltage to the electric motor winding. It also ensures that the overrunning clutch is pushed out. The relay design contains a movable jumper and several power contacts.
• Overrunning clutch with drive gear. More experienced motorists often call this unit a “Bendix”. Using this roller mechanism, torque is transmitted to the flywheel, and after starting, the gears are disengaged to ensure the longevity of the unit.
• Brush unit supplies voltage to the anchor plates. With its help, it is possible to increase the starter power during the main operating cycle.

Most designs have a similar classic layout.

As a difference, other automatic gear disengagement mechanisms may be used. Also, on cars with an automatic transmission, the unit is equipped with additional retaining windings. With their help, the start is restrained when the lever is engaged in one of the running positions (“D”, “+”, “-” or “R”).

How does a starter work?

Based on the fact that the unit is an electromechanical device, the principle of operation of the starter is based on this.

It converts the consumed electrical energy from the battery into mechanical rotation.

During operation, the following processes are carried out:

• When you turn the key in the ignition switch, electrical contacts are connected. At this time, voltage is supplied via the starter relay to the pull-in winding of the traction relay.
• The armature moves along its axis along the body, allowing the bendix to exit to ensure the engagement of the drive gear with the driven gear located on the crankshaft flywheel.
• When the armature reaches its extreme position, the contacts are closed, and now voltage is provided to the holding winding of the relay with the starter winding.
• When the starter shaft rotates, it starts power point car. When the flywheel rotation speed reaches the starter rotation speed, the bendix is ​​disconnected from the driven gear. This is helped by the return spring.
• Simultaneously with disengagement, the ignition key returns to its original position and the current supply to the starter stops.

You should not hold the key in the extreme position for a long time (more than 5...6 seconds), so as not to discharge the battery or cause significant wear on the drive gear.

Perhaps every boy knows what a starter is and why it is present in a car. It is one of the main elements for starting an internal combustion engine, and any disruption in its normal operation will make this process almost impossible. Despite the fact that the design of this unit is not complicated and is similar to most modern cars, few car owners will be able to independently diagnose the starter or carry out any repair work.

If within the city limits all this can be done by craftsmen from the nearest car service center, then on a deserted highway, and even in winter time, failure of this unit can lead to dire consequences. Despite all this, few of the driving school cadets during their training pay due attention to the structure of the car engine in general, and the starter in particular. If we talk about this node vehicle Quite simply, it is a powerful electric motor with a gear, through which the crankshaft rotates when the ignition key is turned.

Starter device - simple about the complex

The unit is small in size and consists of many parts, of which only a few are the main ones.

Most starters produced today are designed identically to each other. Of course, there are some minor differences. For example, the operating principle of a given unit installed on vehicles with automatic transmission. So, there are necessarily holding windings here, designed to prevent the engine from accidentally starting when the gearbox selector is in any driving position. In addition, the automatic gear release mechanisms may differ.

The working principle of a standard car starter

To understand how a starter works, the entire process can be divided into three main stages:

• connection of the starter gear to the crankshaft flywheel;
• starting the starter;
• separation of the crankshaft flywheel and starter gear.

After the car engine has been successfully started, the power supply to the electric motor is stopped, and it does not take part in the further operation of the motor. If we imagine his work in more detail, it will look like this.

At this point, the operation of this unit stops, and until the next time the engine is started, it does not take part in the operation of the car. Despite such short-term work, the purpose of a starter for a car is difficult to overestimate, and any malfunctions will lead to a complete inability to start the engine normally.

Other car starter designs

Despite the fundamental similarity of the main part of the starters, there is one significant difference in the design. On modern cars With diesel engines, as well as on high-power motors, as a rule, a rotary starter or a device with a gearbox is mounted. It has a special planetary gearbox under the main body, which, thanks to its design, allows you to repeatedly increase the voltage passed through it and, accordingly, increase the torque. This is especially important for powerful motors. In addition, this starter circuit has other advantages:

In fairness, it is worth noting that simple modifications have considerable advantages, which include:

• an extremely simple design that allows you to carry out repairs of any complexity with your own hands;
• the starter drive instantly engages with the crankshaft drive, due to which the engine starts almost instantly;

How the starter works and how it works is shown in the video:

Is it possible to extend the life of the starter?

Regardless of its design, a car starter is a fairly expensive component, and its sudden failure will inevitably entail unexpected material costs. Therefore, when operating a car, maximum attention should be paid to the performance of this element; in addition, compliance with basic rules will help to extend the life of its trouble-free operation:

In order to avoid a critical moment when the starter requires replacement or expensive and time-consuming repairs in the service, you should pay attention to any changes in its usual operation. The most common warning signs of an imminent breakdown include several signs.

1. A delay in operation that appears when turning the ignition key serves as a signal to promptly check the starter retractor.
2. In the warm season, with normal oil viscosity, extremely difficult crankshaft rotation is observed - in in this case The condition of the bearings or brushes of the device is immediately checked.
3. It is difficult for the starter gear to disengage with the crankshaft ring, which is often the cause of this phenomenon.
4. When you turn the ignition key, a sound characteristic of starting the engine is heard, but the start itself does not occur.
5. When the power supply to the device is confirmed, its rotation is completely absent.
6. After the engine starts and begins to operate independently, the starter does not turn off, continuing to rotate and consume a huge amount of electricity.

Diagnostics - it’s better to trust a professional

Any of the above faults is not critical in itself, but if it is not corrected in time, it can lead to complete failure of the device. Despite the fact that the place where the starter is located is not difficult to access, and checking it is possible with your own hands, this requires some experience. Moreover, if the starter is new or has a short service life, it is much easier to send it for professional diagnostics.

It is carried out on a special stand, which allows us to identify absolutely all violations in its normal operation. If there is a lack of experience and knowledge, independent removal of this unit and its repair may result in the need to replace it, and even when reinstalling the device, the starter connection diagram may be disrupted. If we exclude mechanical problems, which are associated with wear of its main parts, the main malfunctions and malfunctions in the starter relate to the electrical part:

• electrical circuit break;
• short circuits inside the device body;
• burning of the mechanism itself in those places where there is contact between the working elements and electric current high voltage.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the wear of the brushes. If this consumable element is not monitored and replaced in a timely manner, the power of the device drops sharply, and even with a fully charged battery Starting the engine is quite difficult.

The starter is the most important element of the car. The main task is assigned to his shoulders - starting the engine. But, like any DC motor, the starter is not highly reliable. Sometimes it fails and requires repair or replacement.
Somehow you don’t think too much about how the car’s systems work. Until something goes wrong. And this something often turns out to be a starter, which is designed to start the engine. Most often it breaks mechanical part, slightly less often electric. To carry out diagnostics and repairs, you need to know the principle of operation of the starter and its main components. And a little, at least general, knowledge of electrical engineering will not be superfluous. So what main components does the starter consist of and why does it spin only when the key is turned all the way?

DEVICE

The unit is small in size and consists of many parts, of which only a few are the main ones.

Most starters produced today are designed identically to each other. Of course, there are some minor differences. For example, the operating principle of this unit installed on cars with automatic transmission may differ. So, there are necessarily holding windings here, designed to prevent the engine from accidentally starting when the gearbox selector is in any driving position. In addition, the automatic gear release mechanisms may differ.

Types of starters

Among the large number of similar electromagnetic motors, there are only 2 main types: starters with and without gearboxes.

1. With gearbox

   Many experts advise using a starter with a gearbox. This is due to the fact that such a device has a reduced current requirement for efficient operation. Such devices will ensure torsion of the crankshaft even when the battery charge is low. Also, one of the most important advantages of such a device is the presence of permanent magnets, which reduce problems with the stator winding to a minimum. On the other hand, if such a device is used for a long time, there is a possibility of the rotating gear breaking. But this, as a rule, leads to a manufacturing defect or simply poor quality production.

2. Without gearbox

   Starters that do not have a gearbox have a direct direct effect on gear rotation. In this situation, car owners who have gearless starters benefit from the fact that such devices have a simpler design and are easy to repair (read about repairing a starter yourself). It is also worth noting that after current is supplied to the electromagnetic switch, instantaneous engagement of the gear with the flywheel occurs. This allows for very fast ignition. It is worth noting that such starters have high endurance, and the likelihood of breakdown due to exposure to electricity is minimized. But devices without a gearbox are likely to perform poorly at low temperatures.

Signs of malfunction

Often a malfunction occurs when the starter rotates but the flywheel does not move. At the same time, extraneous metallic sounds and grinding noises are heard. This indicates that the ring on the flywheel is worn out and requires replacement. It is worth noting that when the crankshaft is turned a few centimeters, the starter “grabs” and the car starts. For repairs, you will need to remove the gearbox and change the crown. As a last resort, you can simply turn it over, as it wears out to the middle.

But if the starter spins, but motion is not transmitted, there are no extraneous sounds, and the engine does not start when the crankshaft is cranked, then the problem is in the overrunning clutch. Remove the starter, disassemble it, check the clutch. If it rotates freely in both directions, replace it immediately. Typically the clutch comes in a single design with the fork and gear.

But if you can’t hear the click of the solenoid relay, then you can judge that there are two breakdowns. The most harmless one is a dead battery, so there is not enough current to attract the armature. If the battery is charged, then the fault is in the solenoid relay. Either the winding burned out, or the contacts burned out and stopped conducting electricity.

How to protect the starter from damage?

A car starter is a very important mechanism, without which the car simply will not move. Not every motorist will be able to independently find the reason why the starter does not turn, but anyone can take preventive measures so that it serves for a long time and efficiently.

1. All motorists know that they need to undergo regular maintenance at a station you trust. Here they will be able to identify problems at an early stage and correct them immediately. An experienced technician can find problems in the starter's operation at the initial stage and save a working part.

We are talking about those situations when the engine of your car does not start within the first 5 seconds. This indicates problems with the starter. But many novice drivers stubbornly try to solve the problem by pressing the ignition button over and over again. Then the starter simply breaks down and requires replacement.

1. Autostart very quickly burns the starter and discharges the battery, thereby depriving the vehicle of its ability to move.
2. Experienced drivers are familiar with situations when they suddenly run out of gas. And so as not to push the car several kilometers before refueling, they drive on the starter. This option is possible, but it will most likely be the last for the part. Under such loads, the starter simply cannot withstand it and burns out. Think for yourself whether several kilometers of travel are worth buying a new part.
3. Do not leave the starter on after starting the engine. This will lead to unreasonably rapid wear of the part.

Remember, in some cases the car may not start the first time, especially on cold winter evenings. But the alarm key fob tells the owner the opposite. In this case, the culprit is the alarm system, which simply did not understand that the engine did not start, and endlessly drives the starter in an attempt to start the car engine. If you see such a problem in your car, immediately seek help from specialists, otherwise autostart will simply ruin your starter by constantly trying to start the engine. In addition, you will have a constantly dead battery.

Sometimes situations occur when the car is started using autostart, but the starter continues to work for a few seconds. This happens due to the fault of the alarm system, which did not turn off the part in time. If this situation is repeated in the future, then nothing good will come of it.

IS IT POSSIBLE TO EXTEND THE LIFE OF THE STARTER

Regardless of its design, a car starter is a fairly expensive component, and its sudden failure will inevitably entail unexpected material costs. Therefore, when operating a car, maximum attention should be paid to the performance of this element; in addition, compliance with basic rules will help to extend the life of its trouble-free operation:

• the interval between starting the engine and starting to move should always be at least 30 seconds;
• it is unacceptable to use it to move a car any distance, which is a common sin for novice drivers;
• Regular diagnostics of this unit, as well as timely elimination of the slightest problems in its operation, are extremely important.

In order to avoid a critical moment when the starter requires replacement or expensive and time-consuming repairs in the service, you should pay attention to any changes in its usual operation. The most common warning signs of an imminent breakdown include several signs.

1. A delay in operation that appears when turning the ignition key serves as a signal to promptly check the starter retractor.
2. In the warm season, with normal oil viscosity, extremely difficult rotation of the crankshaft is observed - in this case, the condition of the bearings or brushes of the device is immediately checked.
3. It is difficult for the starter gear to disengage with the crankshaft ring, which is often the cause of this phenomenon.
4. When you turn the ignition key, a sound characteristic of starting the engine is heard, but the start itself does not occur.
5. When the power supply to the device is confirmed, its rotation is completely absent.
6. After the engine starts and begins to operate independently, the starter does not turn off, continuing to rotate and consume a huge amount of electricity.

Broken starter - repair or replace?

Most often, when purchasing a new car, the starter does not need special attention for the first 5-7 years. After this, breakdowns and malfunctions are possible, which must be corrected immediately.

The starter is an expensive component. Before installing a part on a car, it is tested and checked for a long time by experts and during crash tests. That is why in the USA and other developed countries, repairs, or rather restoration of starters, takes place directly at the manufacturer’s plant using a conveyor belt method.

When contacting a service station with complaints about the operation of the starter, it is immediately replaced with a new or refurbished one, and the broken part is sent directly to the factory that produced it. In such a situation, the car continues to drive without problems, without damage to the owner.

As for our country, when a part breaks down, only 1 in 10 car users replace the part with a new one. This situation is directly related to pricing policy, because repairing a starter is much cheaper than purchasing a new part.

If the damage is minor, then the repair is more profitable, but if the winding is burned or the armature has come out of position, then the repair can cost as much as half of a new starter. To avoid getting into a situation where a stingy person pays twice, it is better to immediately replace the part with a new one.

Due to the fact that new components have a fairly high price, and the cost of work is high, repairing starters is an excellent opportunity for service station workers to earn money. Today at many service centers
There is a sign hanging in the building asking people to contact their company for repairs, but in reality there are very few good craftsmen. Most of responsible craftsmen do not even undertake such work. Those car owners who want to save a little money turn to low-quality craftsmen who do poor repairs for help, and after a while you will again find yourself captive to broken parts.

As a conclusion, I would like to say that most problems with the starter arise due to inept handling of it by the owner of the car. After identifying the breakdown and fixing it, think for a moment, what led to this condition of the part? Isn't this your way of driving?

DIAGNOSTICS – IT’S BETTER TO TRUST A PROFESSIONAL

Any of the above faults is not critical in itself, but if it is not corrected in time, it can lead to complete failure of the device. Despite the fact that the place where the starter is located is not difficult to access, and checking it is possible with your own hands, this requires some experience. Moreover, if the starter is new or has a short service life, it is much easier to send it for professional diagnostics.

It is carried out on a special stand, which allows us to identify absolutely all violations in its normal operation. If there is a lack of experience and knowledge, independent removal of this unit and its repair may result in the need to replace it, and even when reinstalling the device, the starter connection diagram may be disrupted. If we exclude mechanical faults that are associated with wear of its main parts, the main faults and malfunctions in the starter relate to the electrical part:

• electrical circuit break;
• short circuits inside the device body;
• burning of the mechanism itself in those places where there is contact between working elements and high voltage electric current.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the wear of the brushes. If this consumable item is not monitored and replaced in a timely manner, the power of the device drops sharply, and even with a fully charged battery, starting the engine is quite difficult.