Used car what to choose. How to choose the right used car: features of purchase. What questions to ask yourself before buying

Naturally, when purchasing, the main attention should be paid to the condition of the body, because, as you know, it is the most expensive part of the car and an error in assessing its condition when buying a car can in the near future greatly darken your joy of owning your own car.

Often motorists, having bought another car, say: What’s wrong with the fact that the car was once slightly dented, but then made better than a new one? The most harmless troubles that can cause broken car This is the inability to adjust the wheel alignment angles due to a violation of the body geometry. Since it is not possible to check the geometry of the body when inspecting a car (special equipment is required), there can only be one piece of advice: NEVER buy damaged cars!

When purchasing, you may well not notice that the car, for example, is guilty of pulling to the right. The caring seller pumped up the right front wheel in advance, and lowered the left one a little, and now the car is on course perfectly! Until you pump up the tires. Windshield, which cracks a month after the next replacement for no apparent reason is also not the biggest nuisance caused by a crooked body.

The seller can swear to you that after the impact, the body repairs were carried out to the highest quality, and the car is better than new. But the use of expensive equipment that allows you to bring the body geometry to zero. So here everything depends on the qualifications of the tinsmith. Even if we assume that everything was really done wisely and the geometry of the restored car is normal, another problem arises. Body parts are connected to each other mainly by welding. Without going into technical details, we note that the technology of this process in a car service center, to put it mildly, is very different from that on a factory assembly line. In practice, this is manifested in the fact that, despite all the measures taken, the corrosion rate of repair welded joints is on average five times higher than that of factory ones. Simply put, a damaged car will rot much faster. You can argue that you don’t intend to drive it for the rest of your life, but expect to sell it in a year. But, firstly, after just a year, external manifestations of corrosion can greatly affect the sales price, and secondly, for example, after just six months, the extension bracket can unexpectedly come off along with the recently welded repair pad.

To paraphrase Henry Ford, we can say: “The best car is an unbeaten car.”

Therefore, when buying a used car, the main attention should be paid to this aspect.

How to determine whether a car is undamaged? Search for options.

To select candidates for the role of your future car, there is

several ways:

Buying from friends

Private advertisements (newspapers, internet, etc.)

Commission shop

We will not consider the first option, because... it does not involve any choice, but is often the best.

Of the remaining ones, at first glance, the market is preferable; you can inspect many cars at once, make a purchase on the spot, and strong competition contributes to better compliance of sellers. But let's look at the problem from the other side from the seller's point of view.

If he is not a professional used car dealer and sells a good car for a real price (that’s what we are looking for), then there is no reason for him to stand in the market all day long, paying entry fees and wasting precious time. The very first advertisement in a popular newspaper or at a popular party on the Internet usually solves his problem. Of course, it’s worth going to the market mainly to find out the price ceiling for the option you’re interested in and try to put into practice the knowledge you’ve gained in the field of used cars.

Thrift stores mostly sell cars that the owners are desperate to sell in any other way.

Although, in fairness, it should be noted that both here and there sometimes you come across very worthy specimens, just imported from Europe.

So, we choose the last option - advertisements.

Writing an ad for selling a car is also a kind of science. The main purpose of such an ad is to attract attention as much as possible. more potential buyers. Therefore, try to highlight in ads only objective information that cannot be embellished with the year of manufacture, color and contact phone number, without paying attention to phrases like excellent condition, sat down and drove, mileage 23,000 (honest). It is not for nothing that the mileage value is mentioned in this list - you can write what the buyer wants to read, but it is impossible to verify this information.

Example. One of the cars, say (black eight, 1990), had a mileage of 370,000 km, while the odometer on the low dashboard, naturally, showed 70,000. The buyer, after a short thought, decided that this was the first round, expressing this thought aloud. The car at one time suffered a strong frontal impact, the consequences of which were eliminated very carelessly, had many superficial dents and scratches, a completely rotten rear panel and terrifying-looking sills, wisely covered plastic covers. In addition, three days before the show, the car was hit from behind (the right side member collapsed) and the body repair was carried out in 1.5 hours (including reinforcement work) using the pole towing method. The color black was used as a distraction, alloy wheels, a sunroof, the above-mentioned plastic sills (very decent by the way), a perfectly running engine (colleagues did their best), as well as the phrase in the ad the main pair 4.13, which caused a flurry of calls at the stated price of $1600.

The above example once again confirms the well-known axiom. Each car has its own buyer. But from a purely human perspective, this buyer was a little sorry.

In general, one is always surprised by the ease with which people believe, for example, that a six-year-old car has covered, say, 50,000 km. Well, this can’t be the case and that’s it! If this data is true, then either the machine most stood idle in her life, which in no way helps to improve her condition, or her owner was an old pensioner who only went to the dacha, but in this case it is he who should show it to you.

Returning to the topic of plastic thresholds and other similar accessories (muzzles, cut-offs, headlight covers, spoilers, moldings, stickers), it should be noted that they are an excellent means of hiding a wide variety of body defects (including through holes and serious dents, as well as outright rot). Therefore, if you are a fan of this kind of tuning, it is wiser to carry it out after purchasing the car, completely focusing on your taste, and avoid inspecting the car with already installed gadgets of this kind. This is especially true for not very new cars (over 4 years old).

Contacts for selected advertisements.

Having selected advertisements that are suitable from your point of view, we proceed to the next stage of communication with the submitters. In a telephone conversation, it seems to me, it is necessary to clarify the following points:

Number of vehicle owners since its purchase

Presence of dents, scratches and brown metallic inclusions (rust)

Country of original purchase of the car

Place of last registration (there are situations when, upon arriving for an inspection, you find a car registered in the Yamalo-Nenets Autonomous Okrug)

General condition of the car (from the seller's point of view)

What is the reason for such a small amount of mileage for such and such a period, if the advertisement indicates an implausibly low mileage (this question demoralizes the seller to some extent)

Availability of technical inspection for next year

Possible purchase options

Machine equipment (additional equipment)

Was the car damaged (painted)

To this list, each of you, of course, will add questions that are significant for him personally and, based on the answers received, will discard some of the proposals already at this stage, without wasting precious time.

If you receive an affirmative answer to the last question on the list, say goodbye, hang up and dial the next number. Answers like: What does this mean?, I didn’t beat it or paint it, and I don’t know the previous twelve owners - 98% indicate that this is a damaged car and there is no point in wasting time inspecting it.

Finally, agreements on the inspection have been reached and you are ready to go to a meeting with the seller. Are you ready?

Preparation for inspection.

In order to begin examining candidates for your future car, a little preliminary preparation is required. Let's divide it into two stages.

The first stage is psychological. As you know, under the influence of emotions (both negative and positive), a person is capable of committing many rash acts. During the purchase period personal car Whether it’s the first car in your life or your eighteenth, a person usually experiences an emotional uplift, accompanied by a desire to quickly bring this idea to life. It is in the wake of this rise that most mistakes are made. Try to leave all your feelings and emotions at home, absolutely everything. Properly performed pre-sale preparation of the car and the corresponding acting skills of the seller can play a cruel joke on the buyer, who cannot free himself from the influence of emotions, even if he has deep knowledge in the field of cars.

In this regard, I recall a very recent case when a tinsmith with five years of experience acquired a nine-wheeler manufactured in 1997. for $2500, succumbing to the influence of emotions. He inspected the car with his wife and she liked it so much that she was able to convince her friend that this was the car they needed with emerald metallic, tinted windows, wide wheels and a sliding electric sunroof. Two weeks later he admitted that he was wrong, and the car did indeed suffer a strong frontal overlap impact. He installed it on the most sophisticated stand for straightening bodies and re-tightened it all day, abandoning all his Lexuses for a while.

This case once again proves that even a very experienced person, under the influence of emotions, is capable of committing rash acts. This is what the cunning seller’s calculations are based on. But in any case, the right to choose remains yours and you should definitely use it.

Clearly define for yourself the requirements that you personally place on your future car and resolutely reject options that do not satisfy them, without allowing your feelings to lead you astray. These requirements look like this (in order of importance):

The car must be undamaged

No cracks in the load-bearing elements or traces of welding work

No corrosion spots

Factory painting

Original attached parts (fenders, doors, hood, etc.)

No major dents or scratches

Absence of towbar and traces of its installation

The absence of plastic sills, overlays on the arches, cut-offs (covers) on the hood and other similar parts that may hide areas of corrosion, holes and (or) dents

Engine and chassis must not have serious defects (such as knocking, smoking, release of oil with crankcase gases, grinding, clanging, etc.)

All other shortcomings, such as: dead shock absorbers, crunchy CV joints, faulty electrical equipment, holes in the upholstery from bulls (a very characteristic defect), etc., are considered insignificant, because their elimination will cost you relatively little, and besides, this is a good reason for bargaining.

Methods for finding these shortcomings will be discussed below, but now let’s repeat:

If you have doubts about whether a particular car meets these (or your personal) requirements, say goodbye to the seller, promising to think about it, and look next car. The market is working for you. So, we have completed the psychological preparation for the examination.

Let's move on to the second stage - the technical one.

To inspect the car we will need:

Flashlight (small)

Roulette

Putty detector

Newspaper (you can use unnecessary parts of the issue where you read the advertisement)

Thread gloves

Inspection.

So, the car is in front of you.

Needless to say, the inspection should be carried out exclusively during daylight hours, for example during the day. Carefully inspect the car, walking around it from all sides, from different distances and from different angles. You may not notice anything, but the seller’s confidence will decrease. The main purpose of such an inspection is to identify smooth irregularities on flat surfaces (smooth humpback), differences in paint shades on different parts, as well as a visual assessment of the condition paint coating and the body as a whole.

Also pay close attention to the size of the gaps between body parts. The absolute value of these gaps is determined by VAZ within a fairly wide range, so there is no need to measure them with a caliper, the main thing is that they are the same on both sides of the car and uniform in length (for long wings, a slight narrowing of the gaps between the front wings and the hood in the area of ​​the toes of the wings is permissible, of course the same on both sides).

Pay special attention to the gaps between:

Front fenders and windshield frame

Specified frame and hood

Front bumper and front fenders

Hood and headlights

Direction indicators and front fenders

Front fenders and doors

Sidewalls and doors

Front and rear doors

The trunk lid and its opening

Also pay attention to the protrusion of attached parts (doors, hood, trunk lid) relative to the mating surfaces.

During an external inspection, also try to identify differences in the shade and structure of the paint on different parts (shagreen, grain differences for metallics). In doubtful places, use the putty detector mentioned above (the method of its use follows from the design).

Make sure there are no noticeable creases along the edges of the roof above the B-pillars. Sellers usually explain their presence this way: A branch fell on the roof. In fact, these are traces of a strong frontal impact.

Also pay attention to characteristic areas of corrosion, such as:

- Roof joints with front and rear body pillars

Windshield frame

Bottom of trunk lid

Front edge of hood

The front part of the inner and outer rear wheel arches (in the absence of rear fender liners)

Be sure to inspect using a putty detector (or tapping method) rear pillars bodies along their entire length. When replacing the rear wings (sidewalls), there is always putty there.

Having laid a previously prepared newspaper on the ground, proceed to inspect the lower part of the body. Inspect the support points of the jack, the condition of the bottom (as far as possible), and in the rear, make sure that there are no traces of welding and straightening of the rear side members and traces of the installation of the towbar that we so hate.

Don’t forget to also check that there are no paint deposits on the inner wheel arches, suspension parts, brace brackets and the brace bars themselves.

Try to check all the visible power elements of the body (spars, front panel, lower reinforcements of the front mudguards, etc.) for the absence of cracks and traces of recent anti-corrosion treatment. In this case, you should carefully examine all the joints of these parts in order to identify repair seams and make sure that there are no reinforcing linings under the brace brackets.

Also pay attention to the number of shims installed on the braces.

As a rule, a carelessly restored car can be identified already at this stage of inspection.

If everything is OK, then we move on to the next phase.

Open the hood (do it yourself to make sure the lock works properly).

Inspect the inside surface of the hood to identify pockets of corrosion.

Pay attention to the position of the hood lock pin. It should stand strictly at an angle of 90 degrees; a different position indicates attempts to adjust the position of the hood in the process body repair. Also make sure there is a yellow sticker with a picture of lightning and threatening words of warning about the danger of electric shock, and its absence should alert you.

Proceed to inspect the engine compartment.

Inspect the front fender mounting bolts. They should not show signs of unscrewing, and the adjustment grooves in the wings should not show signs of sawing. Between the front fenders and the planes of their attachment to the mudguards on both sides there should be sealant painted in the color of the body.

Inspect the front panel. Make sure there is a white rectangular 1.3% sticker on the top of it, as well as the presence of factory resistance welding points where the top of the front panel meets the radiator frame.

Check the presence of a bracket for the front wiring harness holder in the area of ​​the front engine mount. This bracket is very often forgotten to be installed when replacing the front panel and in this case the front wiring harness lies directly on the engine mount.

Such little things seem insignificant at first glance, but they significantly help in our business.

Using a flashlight, inspect the weld joints of the front side members and the lower cross member of the radiator frame. Connections must be made by contact welding, and sealant must NOT be applied to them by the factory!

Inspect the side members along their entire length, trying to identify external signs of repair or differences from each other.

Pay attention to the areas of the front mudguards in the area where the washer reservoir and battery are attached. There should be small waves there.

Carefully inspect the connections of the front strut support cups with the mudguards (the right cup is numbered). The sealant must be applied evenly along the entire length of the connection and certainly equally on both sides. Before 1994, sealant was not applied to these joints. In this case, inspect all resistance welding points of these joints.

Also, do not ignore the connections of these cups with the motor shield.

The power unit on an undamaged car should be in a horizontal position; its tilt towards the washer reservoir is a sure sign of body repair.

Also pay attention to the clutch release cable stop pad on the engine shield, located under the vacuum booster. It's traditional weakness Samara is often a source of headaches for owners. There should be no traces of welding or repair pads. Homemade linings cause frequent chafing of the clutch cable with all the ensuing consequences. We will examine this unit in more detail later, when examining the interior.

This is probably the end of the inspection. engine compartment. Close the hood, once again making sure that the lock works properly, and go back.

Raise the trunk lid. This part is notorious for its tendency to corrosion (especially for hatchbacks). Therefore, carefully inspect its inner surface around the perimeter; brown metallic often lies in wait there. Pay attention to the flange of its opening, on which a rubber seal is placed Bottom part is also a favorite place for corrosion.

Then lift the mat and begin inspecting the trunk floor. The crushed areas located on the sides of the spare wheel well must have their original shape without traces of straightening work.

Don't be lazy to pull it out spare wheel and make sure there is a platform with the body number in its niche (for cars from 1998 onwards).

Let's go to the salon.

At open doors pull them up by the outer handle, making sure there is no play. If there is this play (sagging of the door), the latter closes with increased force. A popular method of masking this defect is to place washers under the door hinge, the absence of which should also be ensured.

Pay attention to the joints of the thresholds and sidewalls in the area of ​​​​the lower hinges of the front doors - these are characteristic places for corrosion to form.

Just above it was mentioned about the need to inspect the clutch cable thrust pad from inside. To implement this plan, you will have to use a flashlight to look into the area of ​​the pedal assembly. While in this awkward position, trace the path of the clutch cable from the top edge of the pedal to the engine shield. Here you can find traces of welding work. If they are not there, press the clutch pedal by hand (remembering to apply the handbrake, if it works, of course, or take other measures to prevent the freed vehicle from moving) and make sure that when pressed firmly, the cable support area remains motionless.

Don't forget to check the license plates (especially the rear ones). They should not have the slightest trace of straightening. After a serious frontal impact, the straightened front number plate is often hung back, where it does not attract attention.

We'll probably stop there. If during the inspection you did not find anything suspicious, congratulate yourself and proceed to inspecting the engine, checking driving performance and other things that are beyond the scope of this article. Take the time to inspect it and you will more than compensate for these losses during further trouble-free operation.

Conclusion.

In conclusion, I would like to give some general advice.

During the conversation with the seller, mention your desire to buy a car that he has deregistered (even if you don’t really want to). Ideally, the seller should willingly agree to this. Various excuses (no time, take it by proxy) suggest that problems (and very serious ones) are possible along the way and it is better not to mess with such a car.

Be sure to check the identity of the body and engine numbers indicated in the Registration Certificate and PTS, especially if you are dealing with duplicates.

Do not take money for the first inspection.

Avoid salespeople who resemble car service workers in their appearance, demeanor, or characteristic slang.

Good luck on the roads!

https://www.detroit.ru

The very first thing is to cut off all parking lots, auto markets and “salons”. The only sure way to buy a used car is not from an authorized, official dealer who sells one brand and is based in a huge area, otherwise the designer/washed coffin/drowned/drenched in paint after a hail car will be passed off as undamaged/ unpainted, plus they won’t let you check it with a third-party service, but they will assure you that it’s a garage version and has a mileage of 30 thousand and hasn’t been damaged or painted. The salon in the Russian Federation is worse in this case. Next we ask if the title is original. The “duplicate” stamp may mean that the bank has come to YOU ​​for money, then who the owner is and how much they owned. If it’s a brother/sister/girlfriend, we say goodbye; if the passport is the owner, but he owned it for up to six months, then this is a second-hand purchase, Bought for dirt, scammed for less and selling it—also goodbye. We ask what they did. They didn’t do anything, they didn’t paint it, they didn’t do anything - it’s nonsense, there are almost no such cars. We must tell you something, it will become clear how the owner treated us.

Here you are. In front of you is a plump guy with an amber scent, and his car has low mileage and supposedly no smokers have been smoked in the cabin. There is probably a taxi driver in front of you. At low mileage, the interior should be almost new, the scenes should not be worn out, the steering wheel should not be worn out. If the odometer shows 54,000, and the car is like a barn, we don’t believe it, we understand that it has driven 400,000 and worked in a taxi, we say goodbye.

If not, look at the headlights and lanterns. If there is dirt in them and they sweat, the car is damaged; also, foreign cars should have symmetrical and ideal gaps between body elements, then paint. Look in the light, better with a thickness gauge. The shagreen is not the same as everywhere else, the sand in the varnish, the different shades and graininess of the paint will catch your eye. OK. Let's assume everything is fine. We go to a car service center, either the official one, or to our own people, so that there is a thickness gauge, a lift and an electronic diagnostician. We don’t respond to the owner’s persuasion that this error is “garbage” or a “waste”; we ask specialists to evaluate the repair. If the car is half dead, we don’t regret the money spent on diagnostics and say goodbye.

It is possible to find a decent car, although it is a long process.

Of course, I described more nuances briefly.

Again. Either it takes a long time to look for the owner, or one of 4-5 on Big city value their reputation as official dealers. No “uncleMotors” or “auntyCars” - worse than any free outbid, mark my words.

As a person who has bought several used cars of varying degrees of damage, I can confidently say that the ceiling for a beginner is to understand whether it is worth going for a diagnosis.

But you need to start with choosing a model. It depends on the budget, needs (some need off-road properties, some don’t, some need compactness, some large trunk etc.), tastes.

Having chosen 1-2-3 models, we go to the club forums. There we look at advertisements for sale and club services. It is very likely that the club services will tell you everything without an inspection :).

Then we meet with the buyer, look for holes in the body, and try to start the car. If no holes were found, the car drove off - on its way to the club service. There they will indicate the defects and give an approximate cost of repairs. Well, then we draw conclusions :)

First of all, you should take a responsible approach to choosing the site where you plan to buy a car. If you want to purchase new car– it is better to contact an official dealer.

In case you have your heart set on a used car, there are several options for sites. This could be a site with advertisements on the Internet: the method is cheap, but rather unsafe, because if you purchase, you do not receive any guarantees of the quality of the car. The most reliable way is to contact your dealer.

Ideally, if you do not understand cars, it is better to seek help from friends or acquaintances who can help you understand all the intricacies. The car may be damaged, restored, it may not have an airbag or other parts that are not visible to the buyer, the mileage may be incorrect, and so on. You can also contact the specialized center of the car brand: they always have services for checking the car before purchasing.

In general, you need to look at the car clean: pay attention to the paint of every detail - if there is a difference in shades, then the car is damaged. You need to pay attention to the glass markings: it is usually located in the lower corner of the glass. The glass must be dated to the same date as the car's production date. If the year does not match, it means the windows were changed: perhaps the car was in an accident.

Buying a used car from a private owner.

The advantages of buying a car from a private owner are as follows:

1. Relatively low cost of the car - there is no need to overpay intermediaries.

2. Possibility to bargain, especially if any defects or malfunctions are found.

3.The ability to obtain reliable information about the history of the car. True, in this case everything depends on the seller’s honesty.

Among the disadvantages of this option of buying a used car, the following should be noted:

1. Difficulty of assessment technical condition auto. A quick self-examination will not reveal most machine malfunctions, especially if they were deliberately hidden. If you carry out a technical inspection at a service station, then the potential buyer will have to pay for it.

2. The likelihood of fraud on the part of the seller. In this case, an inexperienced buyer can easily purchase an uncleared, stolen or credit car. Buying a car by proxy is especially dangerous.

3.Lack of warranty for the purchased car.

Thus, buying a car “second hand” without having the necessary technical and legal knowledge is best done with more “advanced” assistants.

Buying a used car from a reseller.

This method is in many ways similar to the previous one. Their advantages and disadvantages are almost the same, except that the “pros” in the case of a reseller are less clearly expressed, but the “cons” are the opposite. For example, you won’t be able to bargain much with him, and it’s unlikely that you’ll be able to find out anything about the history of the car. But it may be almost impossible to assess the actual technical condition of a car that has been in the hands of a reseller.

When purchasing a car from a reseller, it is often simply impossible to find out its history.

For example, he can “restore” a heavily worn engine with the help of powerful oil additives, which will allow the engine not to show its real condition for another 5-10 thousand km. Or hide scratches and chips with special compounds. Of course, ordinary car sellers do not hesitate to use these methods of resellers, but most often the car owner simply does not have the time, experience, or desire to do such things.

Nevertheless, buying cars from resellers is quite popular in our country. There are several reasons for this.

Firstly, many buyers do not distinguish a reseller from a private owner.

Secondly, the majority interesting offers for the sale of cars simply does not have time to reach real buyers. Resellers work proactively, constantly monitoring new listings and buying cars at a low price.

Finally, thirdly, you can sometimes buy from resellers, oddly enough, cheaper than from private traders. It happens that they manage to reduce the purchase price so much that upon resale it still turns out to be lower than the price of a similar car from a private owner.

Buying a used car at a car dealership.

The advantages of buying a used car from a dealership include the following:

1.Legal purity of the transaction.

2.Convenience and high level of service. There is no need to go to the car market, meet with potential sellers and look for an office to complete the transaction.

3.Good technical condition of the machine and the possibility of warranty service.

4. Possibility of buying a car on credit.

At the same time, buying a car at a dealership has one significant drawback, namely, high price car. Typically, a car dealership puts into it not only its profit (very considerable), but also all procedures associated with legal verification and pre-sale preparation of the car, as well as the risks associated with its warranty service. In addition, not all car dealerships are honest and loyal to customers. For example, there are cases when they sold cars restored after an accident.

When purchasing a used car at a dealership, you can be sure of its legal purity.

That is, they bought wrecked cars cheaply, brought them into relative order at their own repair facilities and sold them under the guise of “almost new” cars. It’s also not always easy to get the salon to warranty repair. Often, warranty agreements are drawn up in such a way that it is almost impossible to repair a purchased car at your own expense. At least not without the help of an experienced lawyer. Therefore, before buying a used car from a dealership, it is advisable to read reviews on the Internet about the work of a particular seller.

Where to buy?

There is always risk when purchasing a used car, regardless of where the purchase is made. The cheapest option is usually to buy a car from a private seller. But lately it has been quite difficult to find a seller who directly offers his car, since resellers are very active in the market. Also, buying second hand carries the risk of purchasing a faulty or “criminal” car. Buying a used car at a car dealership is safer, but at the same time, more expensive.

In any case, before buying a car you need to calculate the cost of its operation. Doesn't matter new car or not. Here is an interesting article that outlines 8 points by which you can calculate the future cost of operating your car -

You need to pay attention to everything, because no one wants extra hemorrhoids with a “brand new” car. When buying a used car, you shouldn’t even try to choose a car at random or based on advice from the Internet. In this situation, without understanding cars in general, much less a specific make/model, you shouldn’t even try to choose a car alone, counting on a lucky break. Here you need to find a competent person and take him to view the car, because each car lived its own life and only a person with experience can determine its condition; in turn, you watched it and you will understand where to look.

Not long ago I bought myself a minibus through Avito. I decided to work as a short-distance carrier. When choosing the right one, Special attention paid attention to the condition of the interior, as well as the trunk. How many clients I would have depended on this) When I had already found a suitable option for myself, I checked with the seller in advance whether a major renovation had been done or not. This was important, because if there was no repair, then I needed to know how bad everything was and what to fix where. In short, everything is done with concern for future clients. In the end, I bought a good car in excellent condition. Everyone is happy.

It's difficult to tell in a nutshell. We encounter unscrupulous sellers and naive buyers every day. Firstly, there are no exact statistics on which sellers " best cars"Those who are afraid of official dealers and believe that they need to buy only from the hands of an individual do not fully understand how the used car market works. It often happens that a private person is a reseller who did not even put the car on himself registration, and you will enter into an agreement not with him, but in absentia with the person who owned the car previously, without even seeing whether he is alive and whether he voluntarily handed over the car for sale to this person.

The unconscious sacralization of sales points called " Official dealer". This status does not provide any guarantees, including regarding the reliability of information about the condition of the car. In our practice, there have been cases of so-called “cuts” being transferred for sale to officials, which were not identified by the car acceptance staff.

All articles

According to statistics, the number of used cars purchased in Russia increased by 11%. In 2020, this figure continues to grow. Such interest of fellow citizens in secondary market auto industry is due to the fact that a used car costs much less than a new one. Accordingly, for less money you can buy a used car of a more popular model. However, it is necessary to understand that this type of transaction has its pitfalls. In this article we will tell you the procedure for buying a car second-hand.

Step 1. Choose a car

So you've decided to become the owner of a used car. How to buy a used car? The first thing any buyer should do is decide for what purposes the “iron friend” will be used:

• hatchback — perfect car for traveling around the city;
• sedan - a car for those who often travel outside the city;
• station wagon - great option for transporting large items in the trunk.

It is also important to consider other characteristics when purchasing, for example, the type of drive. Front-wheel drive cars are considered the most popular today. They are easy to operate and cost significantly less than machines with rear and all-wheel drive. Rear drive suitable for lovers of high speeds; in addition, RWD makes it possible to control the car during unwanted drifts.

All-wheel drive is ideal for off-road use. All-wheel drive vehicles are considered the most stable on the roads, but they differ greatly in cost.

It is necessary to pay attention to the type of transmission: “mechanical” or “automatic”. Despite the fact that a manual transmission will cost the motorist a little less, it will provide many more advantages, for example, the ability to save fuel. However, automatic transmission is easier to operate and is ideal for the fair half of drivers.

Another important point is engine power. The most powerful engine options allow you to load the car to a greater extent.

Step 2. Looking for options

If you have decided on the characteristics and brand of the car you want to buy second-hand, it’s time to move on to the next stage - searching possible options. The 21st century has given us an excellent opportunity not to get up at 4 am to go to another city to the car market. On this moment The selection procedure has been simplified thanks to the World Wide Web. There are many websites that offer a huge selection of used cars:

• avito;
• avto.ru;
• car.ru;
• drom.ru;
• am.ru and others.

Step 3. Check your auto history

Checking the auto history of a car from private hands before purchasing is an extremely important action, by doing which you can weed out unworthy used options. The procedure at this stage is as follows: call the seller and ask Vehicle VIN And government number. As a rule, the owners of “iron horses”, whose history is clean, willingly dictate this data to buyers. You have received the VIN and license plate number from the owner, then go to the Autocode website. With this service you will learn:

• information about road accidents in which a used car was involved;
• actual mileage;
• facts of encumbrance (traffic police restrictions, pledges, leasing, search);
• number of owners;
• information about working in a taxi;
• information about compulsory motor liability insurance;
• other data of interest.

A unique feature of the service is verification Japanese cars by license plate number. Cars from Japan do not have a VIN, so most services are not able to provide information on them.

Step 4. Communicate with the seller

A telephone conversation with the seller is the next step when buying a car from private hands. There is a possibility that it will not be the owner who will communicate with you, but a dealer or a small car dealership that buys and sells used cars. It is better to discard the option with an intermediary immediately, since in most cases resellers buy a used vehicle very cheaply, but sell it for an amount that it is not really worth.

It is better to conduct a conversation with the owner of a used car in a positive way. This way, a person will be more inclined to tell a detailed story about his “iron friend.” What questions should you ask the owner:

• What is the mileage on the car?
• Have there been any accidents, what were the consequences?
• Number of actual owners?
• Are there any encumbrances on the car?
• Has the vehicle passed service maintenance from an official dealer?

If the owner reports that the car is undamaged and there have been no accidents, but a check through the Autocode service indicates the opposite, then you can gently hint that you know this information. There are two possible outcomes here: either the owner will hang up or will be inclined to reduce the price.

Carefully ask the seller about what investments will be required if you decide to buy a used car. Most sellers try to hide the need overhaul car, however, there is a chance that you will be able to find out the truth about how much finance you will need to invest in a used car after purchase.

Step 5. Checking the technical condition

If you decide to buy a used car, then you should understand that checking the technical condition is the most important stage. The amount that you then invest in your “iron horse” depends on it. It is important to prepare for the vehicle inspection.

When inspecting a used car from the owner, you must follow the following procedure:

• inspect the vehicle from all sides;
• ask the owner to show the shortcomings that were discussed during the telephone conversation;
• ask to start the car, monitor the color of the exhaust;
• pay attention to tire wear.

It is important to check for signs of corrosion. Next, check the thickness of the paint coating. Don't be afraid to ask the seller anything you're interested in. Find out why the car was painted and whether the doors, hood and other elements were replaced.

Step 6. Agree on the price

For most people who want to buy a used car, the fundamental factor for making a positive decision is the price. Bargaining with the seller before buying is not only possible, but also necessary. After all, both the buyer and the owner of the used car are interested in this transaction. The goal of the first is to buy as cheaply as possible, the goal of the second is to sell as expensive as possible.

In order for the bargain to be successful, when talking about the price of a used car, focus on the following points:

• the presence of malfunctions that will require repairs after purchase;
• external defects such as the absence of a manufacturer's badge, a wiper, etc.;
• internal defects, for example, dirty interior, defects in upholstery, etc.

Remember that even the owner of a used car does not have a second set of keys can be a reason to reduce the price when purchasing. In addition, check with the vehicle owner whether the price includes a winter set of tires, speakers and other nice extras.

Step 7. Prepare the documents

If you are satisfied with the price of the vehicle and you decide to buy a used car, you can safely proceed to the paperwork. However, we recommend that before purchasing, you carefully check the car again through the Autocode service. It is better to refuse the deal if:

• on vehicle there are encumbrances;
• at least one of the vehicle numbers (registration number, VIN or body number) does not match the numbers indicated in the report.

If you want to find out the maximum truth about a car, use the “Autocode” on-site inspection services. The technician will come to the location you specify in the application and check the vehicle using special instruments.

Today, the procedure for preparing documents for a car purchased from private hands has become much simpler than it was 10 years ago. Now it is enough for the seller and the buyer to enter into a purchase and sale agreement. Further new owner receives all the documents, and enters the following data into the PTS: full name, vehicle transfer address, date of sale, document confirming ownership, and signatures of both parties. Next, you have 10 days to register the purchased used car with the traffic police and issue an MTPL policy. Also, the traffic police must fill in the missing columns in the PTS.

Step 8. What to do after buying a car

The purchase of the car has taken place, and you have become the happy owner of the coveted “iron horse”. Now you need to perform several procedures available at any car service:

• change oil;
• drain brake fluid and fill in a new one;
• change antifreeze;
• balance the wheels;
• change the timing belt;
• replace air filters.

If the purchased car has been in operation for more than 7 years, it will not be superfluous to replace the crankshaft and gearbox seals. These procedures will require certain expenses from you (from 10 to 25 thousand rubles). However, it is worth considering that by carrying out a number of the above measures, you will use the purchased car longer.

Find out more information

Prepare for your meeting with the seller. Find out information about the car on the traffic police website, check the car in the databases of the Russian Union of Auto Insurers and the Federal Customs Service of the Russian Federation. Monitor the car in courts and banks. This will give comprehensive information about the car.

If you don’t have the time or desire to search through websites, but you know the license plate number or VIN of the car, use special online checking services. They will help you find out:

• number of former owners;
• mileage;
• legal problems;
• the presence of restrictions on registration actions;
• information about the theft;
• accident history
• customs history, etc.

Get ready for an objective inspection of the car

You should not go to inspect the car in order to reduce the price. It is much more effective to reason objectively; this will make a greater impression on the seller.

Fedor Tyurkin, car enthusiast, car mechanic. There are 7 cars sold on the account.

The bargain must be justified, I won’t just throw it away. I agree to reduce the price if the buyer sees traces of repairs, dents, lack of parts and other technical defects of the car. For myself, I distinguish five types of buyers:

1. Intelligent. They understand cars and are technically savvy. They can reduce the price easily and naturally, giving reasons.
2. Whiners. They constantly whine: “Let’s throw it here, let’s throw it there.” I remember one in particular. He wanted a Subaru in exchange for a Ford with an additional payment. I whined and whined, and in the end I left. 2 weeks pass, he calls again: ready to take. And I already sold the car.
3. Outbids. These flock to cars with prices below the market average. “Trinashka” costs 150 thousand on average in the market. I sold it for 110. For repurchase, this is already “chocolate”. And he still comes and asks to give the car for 90.
4. Fools. People don’t understand cars at all and are ready to take a car for the money you ask.
5. Adequate. It's just nice to talk to people like that. I came across him once, we rode around with him for an hour and a half and talked. But he didn’t take the car. He needed a different type. I told him about it myself and explained why. As a result, he still drives that car.

Check how you can reduce the price

You can always bargain. You can use real reasons for a discount, or you can use cunning tricks. I use four methods:

1. The very fact of a used car. You can always reduce the price for routine maintenance. For example, after purchase you will need to change the oil and pads. Conventionally, it costs 10 thousand rubles. That's how much you're asking to take off.
2. Body condition. Often there are repainted parts - this can also bring down the price a little. If there was not an accident, but a car, for example, hit a fence.
3. Buying “here and now”. About 5-10 years ago, I often observed at the market: gypsies come and shake a wad of money in front of you. You want to sell the car for 500, but they charge 400 thousand. Here it is, real money, just take it! This works for some sellers.
4. Bargaining with reserve. If you are looking at a Solaris for 500 thousand rubles, you should start bargaining at 460–450 thousand. The seller will refuse, but will offer his own price. You raise the price tag, he lowers it. In the end, agree on an amount that suits both of you.

Alexander Vasiliev, head of the online car inspection service avtocod.ru

Checking the car's history beforehand can help lower the price. What specific nuances can play into your hands during bargaining:

1. A large number of owners. If the car has been passed around, it may be technically faulty or have been involved in an accident. You won't know how she was followed. The seller cannot explain why there are so many owners? Don't buy a car. According to our statistics, if the report shows many owners, then in eight out of ten cases other problems are identified with the car - the presence of restrictions, liens, and more.
2. Twisted run. Incorrect mileage is one of the most common problems found in auto history reports. However, it is quite difficult to identify this problem on your own. Pay attention to the interior: cars with high mileage have severely worn pedals, steering wheels, seat upholstery and armrests. But it’s better to ask for a diagnostic card and compare the numbers. If you see a discrepancy, lower the price.
3. Participation in an accident. road accident is the most common problem, which is detected when checking cars online using online services. Pay attention to areas of damage. If it was head-on collision, then it’s better to give up the car right away. A full renovation will take too much money. We saw in the report that there were accidents, but the damage after them was insignificant - a reason to bargain. So, by the way, you can identify outbids - they lead emergency vehicles in perfect condition before sale. But behind the external shine there are serious problems that can pose a danger to the lives of the driver and passengers. So if a used car looks like new, this is also a reason to think about it and carefully check the history of the car.
4. Failed maintenance. If the seller does not show a valid insurance policy or diagnostic card, be wary: the car may not have passed inspection. This is a reason for a discount, as well as a technical condition check, as soon as possible.
5. The car is pledged, loaned, seized. Be wary if, when inspecting the car, there is no STS, original PTS, or a duplicate indicates that the car has been used for less than three years. If there are such moments when meeting with the seller, show that you do not trust and ask for a discount. Maybe, " iron Horse» purchased on credit, is in pledge or under arrest. When buying such a car, there is a risk of shelling out a round sum from your wallet to pay off the debts of the previous owner or being left without a car altogether.

Inspection

How will the seller behave?

Our experts told us how private traders, people from showrooms, car markets and resellers behave when selling.

Evgeny Loginov, director of the car selection company “My Expert”

Salons discount rarely and little, because they have a certain percentage of sales. Most private owners go for a discount. They are not tied to commission. But there was a case when the seller was stuck on the price. The client had 500 thousand rubles, our task was to buy a car for 485 thousand. The seller wanted 5 thousand more, the deal fell through. We find a car for the client and buy it even cheaper - for 470 thousand. Two weeks later that comrade calls and says that he has matured. But it was already too late.

With “outbids” it happens differently. Their price tag, like that of showrooms, depends on how much they bought the car for. If it is significantly below the market, without serious damage and technically sound, it is unlikely that they will discount it - they will buy such a car even without a discount. When the car has a dark history and is damaged, the “outbidder” will willingly accept a discount.
There is often a risk that a discount on purchase is a drop in the bucket compared to the cost of further maintenance. Deal with sellers carefully. The same reseller is easy to identify. The main thing is to know how.

Daniil Rogozinnikov, psychologist

A dishonest seller will fuss, answer questions vaguely, and rush into a decision. A characteristic microsmile and a gaze directed to the right and upward will give him away. The seller initially indicates the price taking into account negotiations. He knows in advance how much he can throw off. The main thing is for the buyer to understand this and try not to go too far.

How you should look and what you should say

Be confident, friendly and moderately assertive. If the car seller doesn't want to compromise at all, and you don't have enough money to buy, be honest. Admit how much you can pay, how important this car is to you. Honesty will help appease the seller.

Alexander Vasiliev, head of the online car check service avtocod.ru

Keep track of the little things, be attentive but relaxed. Ask for a discount if you don’t have a second set of keys or tires. Is your car ceiling smoky and you need to dry clean the interior? Also a reason to bargain.

How to get a big discount

The seller and I looked at the car together and noticed a large scratch on the doors. He said that he was not going to paint it because ride quality does not affect. The frame of the “TV” was jammed and hidden under a decorative overlay. The hood did not close as it should, as if there had been a slight blow. We decided with the seller that we would agree on the price. From 360 thousand rubles. I managed to lose 20 thousand.

Experts advise taking a comprehensive approach to choosing a car: studying advertisements, searching for information about the car in various services, and using common sense when inspecting it.

Alexander Vasiliev, head of the online car inspection service avtocod.ru

Often, car owners inflate the mileage, hide the fact of an accident, legal problems, “taxi driver past” or indicate inaccurate information about the equipment in the ad. Check the history of the car even at the stage of working with advertisements through websites federal services or special services. If you find problems in your auto history, you shouldn’t even call the seller. Why waste time inspecting an unreliable car? Better save your time and continue searching for a reliable option.

Each sales case is individual. If there are scratches on a car with 10 years of experience, it’s not a big deal. It's worse when they decorate a car from a previous year of production. Then it’s worth taking a closer look at the car. You may have a good chance to negotiate a certain amount. But if the car was involved in an accident, this chance is unlikely to bring much pleasure in the future. Don't be fooled by the low price tag. Problem cars usually have low prices. It’s better to immediately look at medium and high cars price category and get ready to bargain.

Alexander Nikonov, car enthusiast with 11 years of experience, used car buyer

I advise you to read the forums, because the base has already been accumulated. Every car has problems and problems that need to be looked at first. This is rust, engines are oil-guzzling, attachments. If previous owner If you haven't fixed the problem, you could end up with a lot of money.

I helped buy eight cars. When meeting with the seller, keep yourself calm and balanced. The less you say, the more the owner reveals. I just examined, touched, opened. The seller apparently begins to panic and tells in more detail, after which he lowers the price.

Leave 10–15% for repairs and unexpected expenses. They will definitely be there, even if the car is a year old and under warranty. Otherwise, the family budget will quickly begin to collapse.

2. Don’t choose a car based on the principle of “something for 400,000 rubles”

Determine for yourself 2-3 models that you will look for. This will help you not to get scattered and make a rash decision based on emotions. Plus, you can study the selected models on the forums, find out what they are typical problems, maintenance periods and understand the intricacies. All this will make the search much easier.

3. Calculate the average price for the car you are interested in

Most accurately, this can be done manually, remembering fifth grade mathematics, or using the “Price Statistics” tab on the Avto.ru website. Knowing the average price, it will be easier for you to think sensibly, bargain and not fall into the hands of scammers and resellers.

4. Don’t expect someone to sell a good car at a price below average

If a person urgently needs money, he sells the car through intermediaries and receives money instantly. All other cars that are sold at a reduced price are damaged or have legal problems. Or this ad is from scammers.

5. The first conclusions about the car can be drawn from the advertisement

If it contains disgusting photographs and a two-line description like “All questions by phone,” “All maintenance is on time, the car is in perfect condition,” and so on, you don’t even have to call. In 95% of cases it is a reseller.

6. Talking on the phone gives a lot of information and saves time

Ask specific questions that cannot be answered generally. For example, which dealer did the car undergo maintenance? When was the last time the oil was changed? What's new in the car? Is the PTS original? How many owners are registered in the PTS? How long has a person owned a car with a title? Is the person you are talking to an owner or helping someone with a sale? Whether there is a service book, work orders and receipts? And so on.

7. Always check the documents before inspecting the machine

This can be done on the traffic police website or avtokod.mos.ru, if the car is from Moscow or the Moscow region. You can find out whether the car is pledged on the website of the Federal Notary Chamber.

8. Monitor new offers

The best cars sell in a few days or even hours. Therefore, if you want to get the maximum good car to the maximum attractive price, subscribe to updates on the model you are interested in mobile applications Avito or Avto.ru and constantly monitor them.

9. When buying a car at a car dealership, carefully read all clauses of the contract

It should not take more than 5-6 pages. If they brought you a contract, then took it away and brought it again, read it again: there may be changes that are unfavorable for you. If you buy a car on credit, read the terms and conditions with triple attention. Unofficial dealers are very fond of including hidden fees in the price and charging a commission for refusing a deal.

10. To inspect the car, rent a thickness gauge

Look online to see what thickness of paint a particular car model should have, and measure it when inspecting it. True, the thickness gauge is not a panacea, since sometimes cars are painted specifically for the device or minor damage is repaired under CASCO.

You need to look to see if the gaps are the same on different sides of the car, if the paint is knocked off the bolts, if there are traces of paint on the seals and moldings, if the shagreen and paint tone on different parts are different, if the stampings fit together, if the headlights and windows are the same, if they are symmetrical tires are worn out.

11. Don't trust the odometer readings.

The best indication of a car's mileage is the condition of the interior: the driver's seat, steering wheel, armrest and gearshift lever.

12. When test driving, pay attention to all the little things

Check whether the steering wheel is level, whether the car is moving when accelerating and braking, whether something is knocking in the suspension, whether the air conditioning and electrical equipment are working.

13. Before purchasing, take the car to a service center

If you like the car in all respects and you have no doubts, before concluding a sales contract, be sure to go to a service center and at least have the suspension diagnosed. Ideally, there would also be an electric motor. This will cost a maximum of a couple of thousand rubles, but will save you from buying a car in poor condition. In many cases, diagnostics allows us to identify those problems, due to which you can bargain well and certainly recoup its cost.

14. You can enter into a purchase and sale agreement and make changes to the PTS yourself

The main thing is that with one pen and one handwriting. It is better to transfer money to a pre-opened account through a bank cash desk. This will protect you from fakes and fraud.